Apr-Jun 9 2017 Pullman,Golf, Seven Days, Pipestone, TR, Knife River, Ft Union, Bighorn, Little Bighorn, Yellowstone, Teton, JD Rockefeller Jr, Hagermann, Craters, Minidoka, City of Rocks, Big Hole, Grant Kohrs

THE FORMAT THIS YEAR IS DIFFERENT.  THIS IS LIKE A HOME PAGE.  IF YOU WANT TO SEE MORE – SCROLL DOWN and CLICK ON ‘KEEP READING.  There are now two posts - the most current is Alaska beginning June 11

Visits to 347 of the 417 sites administered by the National Park Service completed.  Plan is to visit all but 11 of the remaining sites by mid-September – all but one of the  remaining 11 are National Monuments created by the President after I began this sojourn in 2014.

THURSDAY April 13, 2017

348 PULLMAN NATIONAL MONUMENT, Chicago, IL

Pullman National Monument is located on the south side of Chicago.   It was created by Executive Proclamation of Barack Obama on February 19, 2015 because of its architectural significance, its place in American labor history, and the roles its workers played in the civil rights movement..

Pullman is described by the National Park Service as a story of American opportunity.  Some Pullman workers found success, while others found opportunity limited by race gender, economic status, or position.

The man whose vision and ingenuity helped create opportunity 
was George M. Pullman (1832-1897), a Chicago entrepreneur and industrialist.  Pullman believed train travel should be more comfortable and started experimenting with sleeping cars.  In 1867 he founded the Pullman Palace Car Company to build and lease cars to railroads as well as to provide the staff necessary to serve the passengers. 

Eventually the Pullman cars evolved into luxurious accommodations with an unparalleled level of customer service.

The Palace Cars needed the skills of cabinet makers, upholsterers and other skilled laborers – mostly white and often immigrants from Europe.  Many of the Company’s first passenger workers were former house slaves who relocated to train hubs.

Architect Solon Spencer Beman brought Pullman’s 1880 town to realization.  Pullman believed it would be smart business to provide an improved standard of living to retain skilled workers.  He integrated his factory with a town that included many amenities.  Housing included utilities and indoor plumbing, along with a range of options depending on one’s income and family size.  The model town was well above the standards of the day. 

The town of Pullman opened in 1881 as a “model” industrial town and has grown to over 9,000 residents by 1885..

The housing was designed to accommodate mixed economic classes.  Workers rented homes that met their needs but could never own them.  However, the amenities and opportunities Pullman provided were viewed by many as social control – not social uplift.   It sowed social unrest.

The town of Pullman became the focal point of a classic labor struggle as financial panic hit the country in 1893 and company profits were threatened.  The company laid off or reduced the wages of workers but not their rents.  Workers unmet grievances  sparked the May 1894 Pullman Strike.

Frustrated employees walked off the job – appealing to the American Railways Union (ARU) president Eugene Debs enlarged the Chicago strike into a nationwide boycott affecting any train that moved a Pullman car. 

Administration Building & Clock
Tower - factory buildings were
located behind this building.
Most are gone

Violence and rioting escalated nationally.  Trains were torched, people lost their loves.  In a conciliatory move, just as the strike was escalating, Congress designated Labor Day as a federal holiday.

By August, the strike subsided, and many Pullman workers returned to their jobs on the condition that they would never again join a union.  The strike was unsuccessful but it did draw attention the workers plight.  In 1897, just after Pullman’s death, the Illinois Supreme Court declared the company ownership of non-manufacturing structures illegal.  Within 10 years the residential buildings were made available for ownership.

Pullman was succeeded as president by Robert Todd Lincoln.- However, there is no mention of this fact in the museum or in the NPS literature.

There is a 20 stop walking tour without access to any buildings. The Visitor Center is open 11-3.  Closed Monday’s.

Pullman - Hotel Florence - once elegant - now an empty shell

Similar to Belmont-Paul Women’s Equality National Monument located in DC (created on April 12, 2016) Pullman was apparently run by private foundations – now in partnership with the National Park Service.  But unlike my DC visit – this visit was disappointing.

The door was locked with a sign to knock if you wanted to enter; the person who answered the door was not friendly; there was no welcome – no explanation of what to see or what was available. The museum (if that’s what it is to be called) was not close to what I would consider NPS quality.  I didn’t see a NPS Ranger on the property.    

MONDAY April 17 - SUNDAY April 23, 2017 

Par 3 - Kentucky Dam Village GC

G O L F

Annual Trip to Tennessee and Kentucky with a group of guys from the area.  Usual 18 holes/day for score and another 18 scramble.  Teams change each day. 

Always a good time . . . . . this year a new course in KY, Miller Memorial GC - affiliated with Kentucky State U - Murray and more than enough rain.

MONDAY April 17, 2017 – SUNDAY April 23, 2017

Another annual trip with the Chicago Civil War Roundtable.  This is their 67 Annual – this is my 9^th tour.  Ed Bearss, Historian Emeritus – National Park Service is the lead guide.  The trip is worth attending just to have him as the lead - Ed is a ‘living legend.’

This year’ tour is McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign – The Seven Days Battles.  

Went out 2 days early and followed the route laid out by Matt Spruill III & IV in the book Echoes of Thunder – A Guide to the Seven Days Battles.  This will be my 6^th and 7^th visit to the battlefield and I’m finally starting to understand the movements and sequence of the battles. The book is modeled on battle guides written for the Army War College.

I am not going to rewrite the book or the tour – suffice to say Echoes of Thunder is a valuable resource to understanding the battles and that the guides and rangers at Richmond National Battlefield Park took us to some places that are not on the usual battlefield guides – another aspect that helps those who study the battles get a better understanding of what happened where and why.

SUNDAY May 13, 2017

WEATHER:  Clear 51 degrees – warmed up to 82 as I traveled West.  This is July weather for here, but it’s in the 30’s and snowing in the Rockies where I’m headed..

TRAVEL:  Burlington, WI  to Pipestone RV Campground, Pipestone, MN;EL 1736 LAT 43.998 -  512 miles, approximately 9 ¾ hours drive.

Pipestone RV Campground is located immediately across from the entrance of Pipestone National Monument.  Pleasant – not very busy – early in the season - WIFI does work – clean showers.

349 PIPESTONE NATIONAL MONUMENT, Pipestone, MN

Pipestone Visitor Center

Pipestone was and still is a sacred place to many Indian tribes.  We tend to think of the three major religions in America but the Native Americans are often discounted.  Many still practice the religion and traditions of their ancestors.

The story of the stone and the pipes made from it span 2,000 years of Plains Indian life.  Inseparable from the traditions that structured daily routine and honored the spirit world, pipes figured prominently in the ways of the village and in dealings between tribes.  The story parallels that of a culture in transition; the evolution of the pipes influenced and was influenced by --- their makers’ association with explorers, traders, soldiers and settlers.

Pipestone Pipe

At an ancient time the Great Spirit, in the form of a large bird, stood upon the wall of rock and called all the tribes around him, and breaking out a piece of the red stone formed it into a pipe and smoked it, the smoke rolling over the whole multitude.  He then told his red children that his red stone was their flesh, that they were made from it, that they must smoke to him through it, that they must use it for nothing but pipes: and as it belonged alike to all the tribes, the ground was sacred, and no wepons bust be used or brought upon it. ---Sioux account of the origin of the pipestone, as recorded by George Catlin, 1836 

George Caitlin painting 1836 - "On the Coteau des Plaines"
It depicts Indians working in the quarries, the Three Maidens, and Winnewissa Falls in the background

Circle Trail - Old Pipestone Quarry
possibly depicted in Caitlin's painting

Circle Trail
Winnewissa Falls
The Falls was once 8 ft higher
It was cut to allow
for an Indian School upstream 

The stories vary among the tribes but the variations indicate the geographical extent to which the red stone and pipes were used and traded.  Native Americans still do traditional quarrying with modern tools but still by hand.  There is a 5 years waiting list for a permit to quarry the stone.  A ‘pipemaker’ was in the Visitor Center demonstrating how pipes are made – by hand.

The VC also has exhibits and  a gift shop.  There is s very good movie that explains the legend and traditions of the pipe among the Lakota Sioux.

MONDAY May 15, 2017

WEATHER:  Partly cloudy 62 degrees at 5:15 am.  Thunderstorms are forecast with a high in the low 80’s.  Forecast also calls for highs in the 50’s by the weekend.

SUNRISE 0558              SUNSET 2045              

TRAVEL:  Pipestone area. 

Started raining around 9 am – 54 degrees - radar indicates that it should pass by 1 pm.  Updated plans, blog – maintenance, shopping . . .

349 PIPESTONE NATIONAL MONUMENT, Pipestone, MN

GEOLOGY

Pipestone NMon sits on the Coteau des Prairies, French for “prairie highland.”  It is shaped like a triangular wedge pointing north.  To the east is the valley of the Minnosota River.  The western margin is the Big Sioux River Valley in South Dakota.

Three Maidens - these 'erratics' are gratnite and left
behind when the glaicars melted 

Within the Coteau are many layers of debris, called till, deposited by glaciers.  During the last, the Wisconsin Phase of the Ice Age (75,000 – 10,000 years ago), the ice sheet split into two lobes going around the Coteau.  It was an island between the ice streams.

The solid bedrock of Pipestone is part of the Sioux Quartzite formation.  It consists of 3 rock types that were original layers of mud (pipestone), sand (quartzite), and gravel (conglomerates) which were deposited 1.7-1.6 billion years ago.  These deposits became the rock layers of the Sioux Quartzite formation.

Catlinite (pipestone) formed when mud layers were buried within the earth under temperature and pressure conditions.  Millions of years of heat and pressure and chemical reaction changed the mud into a soft stone.  It is very dense and is about the same hardness as a human fingernail, therefore is can be carved using only the simplest of tools.

The rock beds here gently tilt to the east.  So they become more deeply buried in that direction.  Pipestone quarries must remove more quartzite to reach the slightly deeper catlinite layer, averaging 10-15 ft beneath the surface depending on the location of the quarry.

Circle Trail
Pipestone Creek

Cicle Trail
Spotted Quarry rubble pile 

Circle Trail
Old Stone Face

CIRCLE TRAIL

The Circle Trail is a ¾ mile paved loop that begins and ends at the Visitor Center. Features along the trail include the pipestone quarries, historical markers, Old Stone Face, Winnewissa Falls, Oracle and the native tallgrass prairie. Trail guides are available for loan in the Visitor Center. 

TUESDAY May 16, 2017

WEATHER:  SUNRISE Pipestone 0557 CDT              SUNSET Dickinson 2021 MDT  66 degrees at 5pm – it will be in the low 40’s tonight

TRAVEL:  Pipestone RV Campground, Pipestone, MN EL 1736 LAT 43.998 to North Park Campground, Dickinson, ND EL 2,579 LAT 46.794.

A drive of 9 hours – 526 miles – rain or drizzle for at least 4 ½ of the 9 hour drive – stayed on the Interstates.

Dickinson, ND is a city of over 22,000.  North Park Campground has good WIFI.  Again a pleasant enough place – I’m using this as a base for the next 5 days.  

North Park Homes and RVs is a mix of park homes and RV sites – open spaces– few trees – and few sites occupied at this time of year.  WIFI works.  Friendly staff – suggested a few places to visit.

WEDNESDAY May 17, 2017

WEATHER:    heavy rain at times overnight – 47 at 0415. – cloudy; forecast high 56 cloudy . . . . windy NE 22mph constant all day . . .  look for close to 32 degrees this evening     

SUNRISE 0513  SUNSET 2022;

TRAVEL:  North Park CG, Dickinson, ND  to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Medora, ND to North Park CG, Dickinson, ND

I took a lot of photos today (127) mostly on the trails.

Painted Canyon VC and rest stop on I-94

350 THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK, Medora, ND

When Theodore Roosevelt came to Dakota Territory to hunt bison in 1883, he was a skinny, young, spectacled dude from New York. He could not have imagined how his adventure in this remote and unfamiliar place would forever alter the course of the nation. The rugged landscape and strenuous life that TR experienced here would help shape a conservation policy that we still benefit from today.

Theodore Roosevelt

HISTORY

Within a short time after the death of Theodore Roosevelt on January 6, 1919, there were proposals to establish a memorial in his honor. Various studies took place across the country that included ideas for national parks, monuments, wildlife refuges, and scenic roads as well as state parks. Sylvane Ferris, a friend and business associate of TR during his cattle ranching days in the Dakota Badlands, appointed a committee to pick a site and Medora was selected. The 1921 North Dakota legislature instructed their representatives in Congress to assist by setting land aside for a park.

TR's personal copy of "Hunting Trips of A Ranchman"

Various studies, proposals and counter-proposals for a park took place. Then came the "dirty thirties.” Drought, overgrazing, and crop failures forced many homesteaders to sell their land to the federal government for as little as $2.00 per acre. In western North Dakota land was acquired mainly for setting up leased grazing and rehabilitation. Today, most of what was purchased under the auspices of the Resettlement Act is now part of the Little Missouri National Grasslands. A portion of these new federal holdings was earmarked for a park. In 1934 a cooperative agreement to start a Roosevelt Regional Park Project was signed by the Resettlement Administration, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), National Park Service, and the State of North Dakota. The federal government wanted the project to become a state park. 

TR's original 'Maltese Cross'
Ranch Cabin 

All projects ended in 1941.  In November 1946, the Roosevelt Recreation Demonstration Area  was officially transferred to the United States Fish and Wildlife Service as Theodore Roosevelt National Wildlife Refuge after legislation to establish a park was vetoed because some felt the area did not possess those qualities that merit national park ranking. Undaunted, Congressman Lemke pressed on. Finally, on April 25, 1947, after several compromises, President Truman signed the bill (PL-38) that created Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park. This included lands that roughly make up the South Unit and the Elkhorn Ranch site today. The North Unit was added to the memorial park on June 12, 1948. Additional boundary revisions were made in later years.

Inside of the 'Maltese Cross' Cabin

As a memorial park, it was the only one of its kind in the National Park System. Eventually, in addition to a connection with a president, the land was recognized for its diverse cultural and natural resources. On November 10, 1978, the area was given national park status when President Carter signed Public Law 95-625 that changed the memorial park to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. This same law placed 29,920 acres of the park under the National Wilderness Preservation System.

Today, the 70,448-acre Theodore Roosevelt National Park is home to a variety of plants and animals, and continues to memorialize the 26th president for his enduring contributions to the safekeeping and protection of our nation’s resources.

There are 3 units in Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  Today I’ll visit the South Unit.  There is a North Unit and the Elkhorn Ranch Unit.

South Unit

The South Unit Visitor Center is located just inside the park entrance, adjacent to the town of Medora. It has an information desk,  a fine 17 minute park film, and a museum which offer opportunities to learn more about Theodore Roosevelt and the Badlands. The Maltese Cross Cabin, Roosevelt's first ranch cabin, is located next to the visitor center.

Skylilne Vista Trail 

There are plenty of trails within Theodore Roosevelt NP.  I drove the 37 mile Scenic Drive in the South Unit and walked  7 short trails.

The Skyline Vista Trail (.3 mile round trip) is a short paved path that leads to a viewing area overlooking the Little Missouri River.

Wind Canyon Trail – a short .3 mile loop  that follows a cliff edge overlooking the Little
Missouri River.  It’s seemed a little longer than .3 miles.

.

The Boicourt Trail ran about 1 mile round trip leading to several viewing areas
looking to the south.

View from the top of
the Buck Hill Trail . A .2 mile round trip
 to the highest
accessible place  in
 the park. A steep climb.

Coal Vein Nature Trail – a .8 mile loop.  There are 16 identified stops on the trail.   Trail brochures may be available at the trailhead  - they were not for sale at the VC - print  one ahead of time from the TRNP website.

In this area there was a 12 foot thick coal vein deep underground.  In 1951 it caught fire (caused by lightning) and burned for 26 years.  As it burned away, the rocks above were left unsupported and the surface collapsed. forming the depressions that the trail winds through.  Before the fire the land was level. 

As the coal seam burned it
turned rock above it into hard
clinker.  Literally baking the rock above.
 Some formed chimneys - allowing air
down to fuel the fire through the
 cracks in the rock

This is the part of the area that
collapsed as a result of the
Coal Vein fire.

Coal Seam (black lignite) near the area of the burnout in 1977. 

Old East Entrance along old US Highway 10.
I-94 replaced US 10 and a new VC in Medora
replaced this entrance station.  

Prairie Dog

Old East Entrance Trail is a very easy walk of about .8 mile round trip through a prairie dog town to the original entrance of the park. A great walk I think, for kids - easy and plenty of prairie dogs 'yipping' the alarm that a stranger is passing through town. 

Overlook along the Scenic Drive

The Ridgeline Trail is a moderately strenuous  loop of .6 mile. There is a possibility that a trail brochure will be available but print one out online to ensure you understand the 14 marked stops on the trail.  Great views but not the information is not all that iinteresting.

The Painted Canyon Visitor Center,  (open seasonally) located at exit 32 on Interstate 94,

There were 3 Bison at the
Paiinted Canyon VC at
7:45 am May 15
Saw plenty of Bison but
none as close as this

sits on the rim of one of the most spectacular overlooks in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. I stopped only to find it closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays in May - unparalleled panoramic views of the North Dakota Badlands – no fee to stop here.

Painted Canyon - North Dakota's Badlands &
 Theodore Roosevelt National Park

There is a side walk that runs along the rim of the badlands.  The walkway faces north and earned it’s name as Painted Canyon because of the bare, colorful butte faces that streak the landscape. 

Painted Canyon VC - There is plenty of Custer History here in North Dakota - Montana is not far away
Several trails can be followed along the routes of Custer and General Terry's Expeditions

I also stopped here on the return trip to Dickinson and walked the Painted Canyon Nature Trail – a 1 mile loop that explores the Badlands from top to bottom (and back up again).

THURSDAY May 18, 2017

WEATHER:  It was a TWO DOG NIGHT 32 at 0430, clear  - frost on the truck’s windshield – I have a squeegee but no scraper – it melted off as the sun cam up

SUNRISE 0558              SUNSET 2045              

TRAVEL:  North Park CG, Dickinson, ND to Knife River Indian Villages, Stanton, ND to Theodore Roosevelt National Park- North Unit, Watford City, ND to North Park CG, Dickinson, ND

351 KNIFE RIVER INDIAN VILLAGES

National Historic Site, Stanton, ND  THIS LOCATION IS ON CDT

In 1974, the United States Congress established Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site to preserve and interpret an area rich with history and culture. 

The Knife River region has been home to people for perhaps 11,000 years. Very few objects remain for us to learn from the cultures who lived here, but early written records and large quantities of cultural material document how the Hidatsa lived in earthlodge villages overlooking the Knife and Missouri Rivers for 500 years. They developed a prosperous way of life in harmony with nature and the cycle of the seasons.

The Mandan and Arikara joined the Hidatsa in settled villages south along the Missouri River. Together these three groups pioneered agriculture on the Northern Plains while still hunting bison and gathering wild edibles. Despite their links as earthlodge peoples, conflict and competition were not unknown between these three communities.

The Awatixa Xie Village - the aerial view gives a good depiction of the earth lodge mounds that remain

Tribes from across the Northern Plains journeyed to these permanent villages to trade, socialize, and make war. The Sioux, Cheyenne, Crow, Assiniboin, and Ojibwe along with white traders, explorers, and artists made the Knife River Indian Villages an exciting and cosmopolitan place. Foreign visitors also brought new diseases that dramatically altered communities and cultures and led to the end of the traditional lifestyle in the Knife River region.

A George Catlin painting of a Mandan Village

A reproduction of an earth loedge.

Read the Fort Union for detail on the tribes in the area.

The Village Trail (1.3 mi/2.1km) leads to the remains of the Awatixa Xi'e Village (Lower Hidatsa Site) and Awatixa Village (Sakakawea Site). There is a loop at the second village site that includes a walk along the Knife River.

I

Villages Trail - Awatixa Xia Village is on the left and the
Awatixa (Sakagawea) Village is on the left along the river.

The Awatixa (Sakakawea) Village Site
The mounds are not very distinct in the photo but they represent the
remains of earth lodges.

LEWIS and CLARK
The 1804-05 Lewis and Clark Expedition, the Corps of Discovery, after leaving St. Louis on May 14, 1804 and travelling 1,600 miles up the Missouri River, arrived at what is now the Knife River Indian Villages. With winter approached the Corps built a fort and spent the winter among the Mandan and Hidatsa.

Toussaint Charbonneau, a French-Canadian trader who had been living with the Hidatsa, came to the fort to ask about being hired as an interpreter.  Along with Charbonneau came his Shoshone wife Sakakawea.  Charbonneau was hired - he and his wife spent the winter in the fort.  

On April 7, 1805 the Corps left the fort, and eventually reached the Pacific Ocean.  They spent the winter in a fort they built and named Fort Clatsop.  They began the journey east a bit too early, March 23, 1806 - they had to wait for snow to melt in the mountains and reached the confluence of the Knife and Missouri Rivers on August 17,1806   Here they bade farewell to Charbonneau and Sakakawea to live with Hidatsa relatives. The Corps reached St. Louis on September 23, 1806.

I did not walk the North Forest Trail loop (2.2 mi/3.5 km) through bottomland forest and native prairie or the  Missouri Overlook Loop (2.8 mi/4.5 km) for spectacular views of the Missouri River. Upon entering the forest, you can also choose to walk 0.1 miles on the Big Hidatsa Trail to the Hidatsa Village (Big Hidatsa Site).

Theodore Roosevelt NP - North Entrance & Contact Station

350 THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK, Watford City, ND 

North Unit – open seasonally

The North Unit is located near Watford City. From Interstate 94, take US-85 North at Belfield (exit 42) and continue approximately 50 miles to the park entrance.

Map - Theodore Roosevelt National Park - North Unit
I found this to be more peaceful, more beautiful - - - - just plain better than the South Unit.
Perhaps it was because it was 50 miles north of I-94 - but I would make sure to place this on your places to vist.
In addition to bison, deer, prairie dogs and horses - I saw a bobcat cross the road in this area. 

Slump Formation on the left has literally slid down from the
formation on the right top.  You can match the color bands of rock.

The North Unit Visitor Center is located at the park entrance and has an information desk, movie, and exhibits.  Although someone was ‘working’ in the office the VC was CLOSED.  I arrived at the entrance at 1300 MDT and left at 1700 MDT.  This is when I noticed a couple leaving the office.  Although located in the CDT Zone they appear to work on MDT.

Three Trails converge at this location.  I walked the Caprock Coulee Nature Trail.

There is 14-mile Scenic Drive (one way) that leads from the entrance station to Oxbow Overlook, with turnouts and interpretive signs along the way. There are 18 hiking trails ranging from easy (10 minutes) to strenuous (4 hours).  NO information available on the hiking trails because the VC was not open.

Caprock Coulee
Nature Trail

A view of active
slump

The Caprock Coulee Nature Trail (1.4 miles roundtrip), Caprock Coulee Trail (4.2 miles roundtrip) and Prairie Dog Town Trail (2 miles roundtrip) all appear to have the same trailhead.   I walked the Caprock Coulee Nature Trail.  Amazingly, there was a Trail Guide available.  This trail did not have the vistas of the short trails in the South Unit but it more informative.  Coulees are steep, narrow valleys - formed by water they are usually dry in the the summer.  In the 1800's French fur trappers began referring to these valleys as "coulee" meaning "flow."  The name stuck. 

Theodore Roosevelt NP - North    River Bend Overlook 
That is the Little Missouri River below.

Sperati Point Trail
mostly a level walk on the prairie

Sperati Point The views here
 cannot be captured by  one
 photo  It was  worth the walk.

 The Sperati Point Traihead (2.2 miles round trip) is a ‘there and back again’ trail located at the Oxbow Overlook.  This is a fairly gentle walk on the prairie, along the South Achenbach Trail.  It leads to a small rise with stunning badlands and prairie on all sides.  Peaceful  . . . . . and when I reached the Point – the peace was broken by ‘IHeart Radio Fiesta Latino’ automatically coming on my phone  - a bit surprising – I had to laugh – out in the middle of nowhere – I left it on for a spirited walk back to Oxbow Overlook parking lot.   

FRIDAY May 19, 2017

WEATHER:  Another Two Dog Night - 36 degrees at 4:45 am, mostly cloudy, calm, 42 degrees in the trailer- forecast calls for highs in the mid-50’s – of course listening to the radio can be scary when they say there were 3 ft of new snow in the mountains

SUNRISE 0511              SUNSET 2024  

TRAVEL:  North Park CG, Dickinson, ND to TRNP Painted Canyon VC to Theodore Roosevelt National Park  - North, Watford City, ND to Fort Union National Monument to TRNP Painted Canyon VC to North Park CG, Dickinson, ND

Looks like a borken box cutter
blade.  How did this find its way
between the tread of the tire?
The clean edge was in the tire.

It was really flat.

Always an adventure  . . .  I first went to the Painted Canyon VC,  I arrived at 8:10 – of course it didn’t open until 8:30 = I headed north off of I-94 on ND 85  - same road I travelled yesterday – but this time the Theodore Roosevelt NP North Unit Contact Station was open and had a pleasant conversation with the ranger until a school of kids arrived - continued North.

About 15 miles from Fort Union Trading Post NMon I noticed a warning on the dashboard indicating low left rear tire pressure.  I was at 16 psi then 15 psi – I pulled over to a truck stop without services on ND 200.  I called AAA but it would take at least an hour for maintenance to arrive – so I changed the tire myself.  Luckily the ground was dry – if it were mud I might have waited.  Since I hadn’t changed a tire on this truck before it took almost an hour.  Drove on to Fort Union (which is literally on the ND/MT border) and on the way back to Dickinson, stopped in some MT town to get the tire fixed – cost $20 – then back past TRNP North and onto the Painted Canyon VC.  

           

352 FORT UNION TRADING POST National

Fort Union is in the background.  This of the rear of the Fort
facing the prairie; the front faces the Missouri River (the treeline)

Historic Site, Williston, ND

Between 1828 and 1867, Fort Union was the most important fur trade post on the Upper Missouri River. Here, the Assiniboine and six other Northern Plains Indian Tribes exchanged buffalo robes and smaller furs for goods from around the world, including cloth, guns, blankets, and beads. A bastion of peaceful coexistence, the post annually traded over 25,000 buffalo robes and $100,000 in merchandise.

This is the trading room - just to the left of the front gate. The trader
would greet and entertain Indians who cam to trade in this room.
The re-enactor (trader)above was very helpful in providing information
about the trading days.

With the decline of the fur trade, the original Fort Union was dismantled by the US Army in 1867.  The materials were used to expand Fort Buford.

After its 1966 creation, years passed with little progress toward Fort Union’s reconstruction. Supporters remained hopeful nonetheless. And their optimism grew with Sylvester Putman’s 1972 arrival.

Fort Union - Front Gate
Note it is double gated. The
trading room is the immediately
on the left

Long interested in history, Putman, the NPS’s second African American superintendent, partnered with regional boosters to promote the historic site.  At the time, Putman admitted, Fort Union wasn’t a “high priority” for the park service.  Priority is based on the number of visitors an area draws.

Congress authorized funds for the fort’s reconstruction in 1985. By that time, however, Putman had served for nearly a decade as the superintendent of Virginia’s Richmond National Battlefield Park, a Civil War site. 

THE FUR TRADE

John Jacob Astor’s American Fur Company (AFC) built Fort Union trading post to make money from the plethora of pelts, robes, and other furs to be taken from beaver, bison (or buffalo), and other animals in the northern Rocky Mountains. England’s Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC) operating to the north, in Canada, could not ship pelts, furs, and trade goods on the south-flowing Missouri River through Spanish, French, and, after 1803, American territory initially explored in 1804–1806 by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. That circumstance created a competitive opportunity for American fur traders.

Soon after 1828, Fort Union dominated the Upper Missouri fur trade. The post’s founding bourgeois, or manager, AFC partner Kenneth McKenzie, solidified that dominance after 1832. That summer, McKenzie brought the first steamboat to Fort Union, a transportation innovation that revolutionized the fur trade. Transportation costs lower than the HBC’s meant the Upper Missouri Outfit, as the AFC’s western department was called, could pay more for furs than its Canadian competitor. With this advantage, the UMO convinced potential trading partners among the Blackfeet to trade with Fort Union instead of the HBC.

Fort Union - view from the bastion.  The framing on the left represents the quarters for the occupants.
The trading room is right front.  The rear gate is left rear of the fort. The blacksmith area is center front.
  The Bourgeois House is in the center of the fort. 

NORTHERN PLAINS TRIBES

Assiniboine
The Assiniboine tribe (pronounced uh-SIN-uh-boin) was the principal trading partner for Fort Union. In fact, the post was built on land in Assiniboine territory specifically at the tribe's request. Not surprisingly, then, the Assiniboine looked to Fort Union with protective eyes, helping to keep the post safe from occasional hostilities that might erupt among the tribes that came here to trade.

Crow
The Crow Indians were probably the second most common tribe at Fort Union, especially in the early years. The Crows' home was up the Yellowstone River and the south bank of the Missouri was considered the northern limit of their hunting grounds. Bands of Crow people were often found at Fort Union awaiting their turn to trade their buffalo robes, which were in high demand amongst the traders as Crow women were widely held to be the best tanners of prime winter buffalo cow hides.

Bourgeois House

The Crow are also a Siouan-speaking people, but their language is not mutually intelligible with the Sioux language. The Crow are widely held to be a splinter group of the Hidatsa, a riverine tribe covered below. The Crow and the Hidatsa were close allies and were culturally and linguistically similar.

Blackfeet
The Blackfeet are often thought of as one tribe however they were actually three closely allied and related tribes, the Piegan, the Blood, and the Blackfoot. For many years the Blackfeet traded almost always with the Hudson's Bay Company of Canada, discouraging (often violently) attempts by American traders and trappers to enter their territory. However, after the construction of Fort Union Kenneth McKenzie made it one of his goals to win over the Blackfeet Indian trade to the American side. To effect this he sent Jaques Berger, a company employee who had lived among the Blackfeet, to bring them to Fort Union. Berger was successful and the Blackfeet began trading with the American Fur Company at Fort Union. Soon, the Company would build Fort McKenzie, and later Fort Benton, closer to Blackfeet territory. Even so, bands of Blackfeet would still occasionally show up at Fort Union to trade and visit with their friends.

The Blackfeet speak an Algonkian language and share some cultural similarities with other Algonkian tribes. For a time they were allied with the Atsina (Gros Ventre), a closely related group of the Arapaho Indians. They were also allied with the small Sarsi tribe of north-central Alberta, Canada.

Fort Union - Badmer painting

Plains Cree
Like the Blackfeet, the Plains Cree are a Algonkian speaking people. However their language and culture are very different to that of the Blackfeet. At one time the Cree people all dwelled in the forests of Eastern Canada and the United States. During the 1700s bands of the Cree began following the British and French fur traders westward onto the plains. These bands became known as the Plains Cree and adopted the general Plains culture of buffalo hunting and tipi dwelling.

Plains Cree and their close allies, the Plains Chippewa, were often found at Fort Union, especially in the company of their other close ally, the Assiniboine. In the later years at Fort Union the Plains Cree may have been the second most common tribe present, surpassing the Crow.

Plains Chippewa (Ojibwa)
The Plains Chippewa like their allies the Plains Cree, are an Algonkian speaking people. At one time they controlled most of the land around the Great Lakes, but war with other tribes and European settlers gradually forced them westward. By the 1700s many bands of Chippewa had entered modern day North Dakota and Saskatchewan, adopting the Plains lifestyle as they did so.

The Plains Chippewa (also known as the Ojibwa) frequently traveled with their allies, the Plains Cree and Assiniboine, and were thus often found trading at Fort Union.

Mandan
Most likely the first "modern" Indian tribe to inhabit the modern-day state of North Dakota, the Mandan are a Siouan speaking people that arrived in the area in the 1400s or 1500s. The Mandan were an earthlodge dwelling people, living in semi-permanent villages and towns along the Missouri River and primarily using hide tipis only when hunting buffalo or otherwise traveling. The Mandan were an agricultural people, growing large gardens of corn, beans, squash, and tobacco.

The Mandan were well known to fur traders by the time Lewis and Clark arrived at their villages in 1804. The Mandan provided Lewis and Clark with important information about the Missouri River further upstream and allowed them to build a small fort for a winter camp near the villages, which the Captains named Fort Mandan in honor of their new friends.

Hidatsa
Also a Siouan speaking group, the Hidatsa (the group from which the Crow split) moved westward into the Upper Missouri Region in the 1600s, encountering the Mandan and arriving prior to the fur traders. The Mandan and Hidatsa were closely allied and during their first meeting the Mandan called them Minitari or Crossing the river. However, their languages are different and they shared limited "Plains" culture traits.

The Hidatsa also provided some information to the Lewis and Clark Expedition, but were not as openly warm as the Mandan were. Whoever, it would be in the Awahtixa village where Lewis and Clark would find Sakakawea and Charboneau. The Hidatsa and Mandan could often be found at Fort Union until the American Fur Company eventually build Fort Clark, and later Fort Berthold, for their trade. In the late 1800s, after Fort Union was closed, a band of Hidatsa, tired of the reservation life and wars with their enemy the Lakota as well as inter-tribal politics, moved their village to the old Fort Union garden in order to be closer to Fort Buford a United States Army post. They would return back to Fort Berthold by the late 1880s.

Arikara
The Arikara are a semi-sedentary tribe like the Mandans and Hidatsas, however they are more related to the Pawnee and speak a Caddoan language. They were living along the Missouri River in modern-day South Dakota the during the 1700s and had peaceful relationships as well as battles with the Mandan, Hidatsa, and some fur traders. The United States Army in 1823 attacked their main villages in retaliation for an Arikara attack on William H. Ashley's fur trade expedition which sources say began when two trappers crept in to the villages in the middle of the night to find female companionship after a couple of days of trading. After the battle with the United States Army 6th infantry, the Arikara temporarily adopted the nomadic Plains lifestyle. Eventually they returned to their sedentary lifestyle and by the 1830s were again living in villages along the Missouri.

Following the 1837 smallpox epidemic, which was particularly devastating to the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara, the Arikara allied themselves with the Mandan and Hidatsa in 1862 and moved in with their former neighbors for equal protection from the Lakota. Today, these three tribes are known as the Three Affiliated Tribes.

Sioux or Lakota
The Sioux are made up of three large tribes that share a common language (with only slight dialect differences) and culture. The three divisions are the Dakota, the Nakota, and the Lakota (named here for their dialects). The Eastern Dakota lived mainly in Minnesota though some bands would venture further west onto the Plains following the 1862 Minnesota Uprising War. The Nakota, or Middle Sioux, consisted of the Yankton and Yanktonai, and dwelt in modern-day central North Dakota and eastern South Dakota. The Lakota, or Western Sioux (also known as the Teton Sioux), were the largest Sioux tribal group, made up of seven bands. These seven consisted of the Oglala, Brule, Hunkpapa, Minneconjou, Sans Arcs, Blackfeet (not to be confused with the Blackfeet tribe, above), and Two Kettle. The Lakota inhabited a vast area from the Missouri River west to the Bighorn Mountains and from the Platte River north into the extreme southern parts of the Canadian Plains.

The Lakota did not make an appearance at Fort Union until the 1840s and did not start showing up in large numbers until the late 1850s. By the time Fort Union closed in 1867 the Lakota had moved in large numbers and taken the territory from the Assiniboine. It was primarily the Hunkpapa Lakota in the Fort Union vicinity, but family groups or individuals from most bands could be found from time to time in the area.

SATURDAY May 20, 2017

WEATHER: 42 at 5 am cloudy, got up to 60 with sunny skies by 2 pm, forecast low of 36 degrees tonight

DICKINSON, ND            LAT 46.8792     EL 2,411           SUNRISE 0510              SUNSET 2025              

TRAVEL:  North Park CG Dickinson, ND to TR National Park Painted Canyon VC to TR NP VC South Medora, ND to Petrified Forest Trailhead to Bully Pulpit GC to Medora, ND to North Park CG Dickinson, ND 

Spent the morning labeling the photos of the last three days.  Drove to Theodore Roosevelt National Park and hiked  3 miles of the North Petrified Forest Trail.  Bully Pulpit GC was hosting the North Dakota Golf Association’s 2 man scramble.  The event continues through Sunday.  Stopped for a beer at Boot’s Bar & Grill in Medora  – it was crowded and service was lousy or non-existent  – even at the bar – decided not to eat here and drove back the campground.

350 THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK, Medora, ND

Elkhorn Ranch Unit

The Elkhorn Ranch Unit protects the location of Roosevelt's "home ranch" in the Badlands. The only tangible remains of the ranch are the foundation stones of the buildings. A visit to the Elkhorn supposedly gives visitors a sense of the peace and solitude Roosevelt enjoyed while a rancher in the Dakota Territory.

However, the site is only accessible via a 35-mile drive over grassland gravel roads. Road conditions can vary, and a high-clearance vehicle is recommended. I decided I didn’t need a 70 roundtrip ride on a dirt road just to feel solitude.  I got 14 miles (in and out) of dirt road and solitude driving to the Petrified Forest trailhead.

In the return trip along I-94, I took the turnoff to the South Unit’s Wilderness Area and the Petrified Forest.  I was a 7 mile dirt road drive in.  There are several trails here.  I walked 3 miles round trip (1 1/2 hours) on the North Petrified Forest Trail. I think the pictures tell the story.

TRNP - Petrified Forest Trail

Petrified Forest Trail
there were two uphill
climbs to reach the forest

Petrified Forest Trail

Petrified Forest Trail
this is the trail

Petrified Forest Trail
petrified wood

Petrified Forest Trail
petrified wood

Petrified Forest Trail
petrified tree stump

SUNDAY May 21, 2017

WEATHER:  33 degrees at 0450, 43 in the trailer.  I really think these have been THREE DOG NIGHTS – I’ve used all the blankets in the trailer.  If it got any colder I may be in trouble.

DICKINSON, ND            LAT 46.8792     EL 2,411           SUNRISE 0509              SUNSET 2026  

Our Lady Queen of PEace
Dickinson, ND

TRAVEL:  North Park Campground Dickinson, ND to the Enchanted Highway to   Medora, ND and Bully Pulpit Golf Course to North Park CG, Dickinson, ND

8am Mass at Our Lady Queen of Peace in Medora.  Nothing unusual or different here except that I noticed many young families attending mass.

Spent the morning updating the blog, doing laundry and labeling photos.

Fisherman's Dream

ENCHANTED HIGHWAY

This drive was recommended by the North Park owner.  It is off of I-94 East of Dickinson.  The Enchanted Highway begins at Exit 72 on I-94 near Gladstone and terminates 32 miles down the road in the small town of Regent. Beginning with "Geese in Flight" at Exit 72, large metal sculptures are placed along the county highway, each with parking a area and kiosk.  There is a parking area for “Geese in Flight: if you exit I-94 at Exit 72.

 Sculptures include "World's Largest Tin Family," "Teddy Rides Again," "Pheasants on the Prairie," "Grasshoppers in the Field," "Deer Crossing" and "Fisherman's Dream." It was Sunday and  Regent nothing was open in Regent.  It’s worth the drive if you have an hour to kill. The sculptures are amazing.

Grasshoppers in the Field

Pheasants on the Prairie

I was hoping to visit Chateau de Mores in Medora but it is closed on Sunday’s

GOLF – Bully Pulpit Golf Club, Medora, ND  unfortunately I left my camera in the trailer.  Look on line - this place was fantastic.   The front nine is fairly level along the plain of the Little Missouri River. I shot 43 with 15 putts.  The back nine was a bit more challenging. Three of the holes are literally carved out of the BADLANDS - the views and elevated tees provide challenge and great views.  I shot 48 with 23 putts and one lost ball. 

 

MONDAY May 22, 2017

WEATHER: 47 degrees at 8:45 in Dickinson, 68 in Billings at 3:15 pm

DICKINSON, ND            LAT 46.8792     EL 2,411           SUNRISE 0508 

BILLINGS, MT              LAT 45.7833     EL 3,123           SUNSET 2046 

TRAVEL:  North Park Campground, Dickinson, ND to Yellowstone River RV Park, Billings, MT.  A trip of 326 miles all along I-94 – occasional rain showers.

Yellowstone River RV Park

Yellowstone River RV Park

Yellowstone River RV Park – gravel lots, fairly level about ¾ full – tight lots – seems very expensive $78.97 per night with the Good Sam discount..  Sites are gravel, level, and shaded.  Private showers – however, only 2 male -2 female for the entire campground?  Similar to ND – must have something to do with RV Park codes.  A Nature Trail leads to the fast flowing Yellowstone River – and WIFI  appears to slow down depending on the time of day.  It was useless this evening. You would get a better connection at a McDonald’s..

Yellowstone River - fast flowing

Nature Trail

TUESDAY May 23, 2017

WEATHER:  43 at 5am, highs of low 70’s and low 60’s at higher elevations

BILLINGS, MT              LAT 45.7833     EL 3,123           SUNRISE 050xx            SUNSET 20xx  

TRAVEL:  The distances out here are vast . . . .  Yellowstone River RV Park Billings, Mt to Bighorn Canyon NRA Lovell, WY ( 103 miles 1hr 45 minute drive) to Yellowstone River RV Park, Billings, MT..

353 BIGHORN CANYON National

This VC is just outside of Lovell, WY

Recreation Area, Big Horn County, MT

Congress established Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area in 1966 to provide enjoyment for visitors today and protect the park for future generations.

After arrival at the VC I travelled the road north to the end of the road.
On Wednesday I drove to Yellowtail Dam after visiting the Little Bighorn Battlfield

The Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area spans the borders of Montana and Wyoming.  The vast, wild landscape of Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area offers opportunities to immerse yourself in the natural world, and experience the wonders of this extraordinary place. With over 120,000 acres, there is a diversity in ecosystems, wildlife, and more than 10,000 years of human history to explore.

The Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center is located just east of Lovell, WY. It was larger than I imagined it would be. I requested to watch two videos.  One on Bighorn Canyon,  and another on its geology.  There are also some exhibits at the VC. Highway 14A through the Bighorn Mountains east of the NRA was still closed due to 3-4 feet of snow on May 15^th.

VC Pond Trail - Originally built to
reflect sunlight onto solar collectors.
The collectors have long since
been removed and the pond is going
back to nature.

South Entrance Sign
There is also a pay staton here and
a seaonal VC that was CLOSED

The Visitor Center Pond Trail is an easy ¼ mile concrete loop.  The pond was originally built to reflect light on solar panels that have long since been removed from the building.  The pond is being reclaimed by nature and will one day become a small marshland.

This map may help you orient yourself.  Crossing the Bighorn Canyon area can be challenging.
The Canyon is bounded by the Pryor Mountains to the west and the Bighorn Mountains to the east.
Highway 14A was still closed due to 3-4 ft of snow on May 15.  The first crossing north of the Canyon
is north of Fort Smith and the Yellowtal Dam.. 

Devil Canyon Overlook - the course of the Bighorn River
changed over eons.  In the past the river meadered
You can see the course of the ancient river in the rocks.

There are approximately 17 miles of designated trails in Bighorn Canyon NRA.  Unfortunately, the most trailheads are not marked from the main road.  I missed more than I found.   I did buy a Hiking Guide – it’s a nice looking color booklet and great trail maps, if you are a intelligence specialist used to looking at color aerial photos with a magnifying glass – maps were only somewhat useful.  The accompanying verbiage tells some about the area and sometimes even tells you where the trail starts.

Bighorn Canyon Overlook 

Time and water are key to the canyon, where the land has been shaped by moving water since upheavals of the Pryor (west) and Bighorn Mountains (east) millions of years ago. 

For 15 miles upstream from Yellowtail Dam , the lake bisects a massive, arching anticline, exposing fossils that tell of successive times when the land was submerged under a shallow sea, when it was a tropical march, and when its conifer forests were inhabited by dinosaurs.

Horseshoe Bend Landing - Low Water and not ready for recreation
Water has been let out of the Yellowtail Dam anticipating
high runoff as the snow melts in the mountatins

The focus of the area is 71 mile long Bighorn Lake, created by Yellowtail Dam near Fort Smith, MT.  It appears that most of Bighorn’s visitors come to enjoy the lake. I heard more birds singing here at more places than I have in a long time.

Sullivan's Knob Trail - the canyon really will provide
a triple echo

Sullivan’s Knob Trail (EL 4367 )is a moderately easy 1 mile round trip trail. However, I did get off the trail 2x.  It took me 45 minutes to walk it and could be marked better.  The trail is about a mile north of the Devil’s Canyon Overlook junction.  Sullivan’s Knob Trail meets an ancient trail called the Bad Pass Trail that was seasonally traversed by Indians moving between the Bighhorn Basin and the Northern Plains.  Nature is in the process of reclaiming the trail .  the Sullivan’s Knob Trail leads to the canyon rim.  A yell here will make the canyon walls echo.

Tow Eagles Interpretive Trail

Look closely to see the circle of
stones above left of the marker

The Two Eagles Interpretive Trail is an easy ¼ mile round trip.  The site was used by Indians for over 10,000 years.  There are more than 140 stone circles in the vicinity which were used by tribal families to hold down the edges of tipis,  /when they moved to the next encampment, the stones would simply be rolled off the edges of the tipi and left for the next visit.  EL 4257  It took only 10 minutes to walk this trail.

Upper Layout Creek
Trailhead - from here its
all uphill

The Upper Layout Creek Trail is an arduous 4 mile round trip with 250 feet of elevation gain.  This is located in the vicinity of the Eratus T. Ewing ranch.  Ewing came to Bighorn Canyon looking for gold.  Finding none he decided to try ranching.  In 1897 he filed to appropriate 200 inches of water per year from the Layout Creek for irrigation, mining and milling.  In later years, other inhabitants built holding ponds and added more ditch systems.

Ewing-Snell Ranch
this building was used as a
school house for 2 years after WWII

The Upper Layout Creek Trail begins at Ewing Ranch site just to the right of the corrals.  You can drive up the  gravel road for about a mile to where there is parking for just about two cars – I’m glad I did – saved a lot of time.  The elevation here is EL 4696 – the guide said there was a 250 foot gain in elevation and a 1.8 mile round trip – I think - humbug. 

Upper Layout CreekTrail along the trail

Upper Layout Creek
Trail one of many
waterfalls

Upper Layout Creek
Trail going up

Upper Layout Creek
Trail another falls

Upper Layout Creek
Trail - still not the end

Upper Layout Creek
still going up

Upper Layout Creek - the end of the trail - the falls and spring - worth the hike up here
Pictures are unable to capture all the beauty of this fall

Upper Layout Creek Trail
going down

Upper Layout Creek Trail
going down

This was the narrowest, steepest, curviest, and perhaps most beautiful trail I’ve yet walked.  The 250 foot increase in elevation just doesn’t seem like enough – check a map.  It took just a little over 2 hours to make the round trip – at an average of maybe 2 mph of less I’d guess the trail was more like 4 miles round trip.  Coming down, especially at the top, was steep and almost dangerous – you had to watch your footing so you wouldn’t slip on the rocks. The waterfall and spring at the very end was well worth the hike.  

WEDNESDAY May 24, 2017

WEATHER 49 at 4:30 am, clear, forecast calls for highs in the upper 70’s with winds this afternoon 40-50 mph as a front moves through dropping the temps and bringin on some rain. 

BILLINGS, MT              LAT 45.7833     EL 3,123           SUNRISE 0506  SUNSET 2030  

TRAVEL:  Yellowstone River RV, Billings, MT to Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, Crow Agency, MT to Bighorn Canyon NRA – Yellowtail Dam to Yellowstone River RV, Billings, MT

354 LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD National Monument, Crow Agency, MT

This area memorializes the U.S. Army's 7th Cavalry and the Sioux and Cheyenne in one of the Indian's last armed efforts to preserve their way of life. Here on June 25 and 26 of 1876, 263 soldiers, including Lt. Col. George A. Custer and attached personnel of the U.S. Army, died fighting several thousand Lakota, and Cheyenne warriors.

The maps can help you understand the battle.  The VC is near Last Stand Hill.  The blue solid lines indicate known route of US Cavalry; the dotted blue are conjecture.  The red dotted lines are Indian advances based on  conjecture.    .  Deep Ravine, Greasy Grass Ridge, Deep Coulee, Medicine Tail Ford, Mediciane Tail Coulee, and the Indian Encampment are all points of reference.  Reno-Benteen's actionas and defesne are off the top of the mapl 

I had read a good book prior to the visit and it was very helpful in understanding the battle.  The book pretty much follows the tour at Little Bighorn; if you visit here plan on  4 hours, to include walking the 2 short trails.  Purchase Trail Guides at the VC.  I did purchase and audio tour – it was worth the cost. There is a 30 minute film at the VC and a small museum and book store.  This appears to be a popular site for school children, bus tours and of course a lot of people visit.  It is adjacent to I-90 and the Indian Encampment  along the Little Bighorn River looks like it  was pretty much in the current I-90 corridor.  

This map is to the top of the one above.
 Of interest are Reno's Valley Fight, Reno's Retreat, Weir Point, and the Reno-Benteeen Entrenchment.

What actually happened at the Little Bighorn is a lot different than legend or what you may have seen in the movies.  If you care to read on, I’ll try to outline the movement and battle highlights.

CAMPAIGN OF 1876

MG Phil Sheridan was in overall command and had devised a plan for three columns to diverge on the Cheyenne and Sioux “hostiles” The plan was to capture the Indians between the three columns and direct them back to their reservations.  

BG George Crook with 1,000 soldiers marched north from Fort Fetterman,WY; COL John Gibbon with 450 horse and foot soldiers marched east from Fort Ellis, MT; BG Alfred Terry and LTC George A. Custer’s 7^th Cavalry marched west from Fort Abraham Lincoln, ND with over 2,500 soldiers.

Custer’s command joined Gibbon’s briefly. Both officers were under the command of BG Alfred Terry.

Crook’s column was surprised by a powerful Indian attack led by Crazy Horse and Two Moons.  After the Battle of the Rosebud  (about 100 miles south of Little Bighorn) on June 17^, Crook retreated back to his base camp on Goose Creek.  This was unknown to Terry, Gibbon and Custer. 

A path of ‘hostile’ tribes was discovered by scouts leading toward a river the Indians called “Greasy Grass”, Little Bighorn to the soldiers.

On June 21^st on board the supply boat Far West moored at the confluence of the Yellowstone River and Rosebud Creek, Terry, Gibbon and Custer planned their attack.

Terry ordered Custer and the 7^th Cavalry up the Rosebud to approach the Little Bighorn from the south.  Terry would accompany Gibbon’s force back up the Yellowstone to approach from the north.

The US Army’s 7^th Cavalry had about 600 soldiers at the Little Bighorn  under the leadership of  LTC George A. Custer, MAJ Marcus Reno and CPT Frederick Benteen.   Custer was ordered to follow the path and approach the Indians from the south.  Terry and Gibbon continued to move west along the Yellowstone River to the mouth of the Bighorn River.

“. . . it is hoped that the Indians may be so nearly enclosed by the two columns that their escape will be impossible.”

LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLE

The Indian Encanpment was along the Little Bighorn River
this would be the flat are beyond the trees on the right of the picture

The Indians had left their reservations and are willing to fight to defend their homeland and preserve their way of life.  Their camp on the Little Bighorn grew to almost 1,000 lodges, home to almost 10,000 Indians including 1,200-2,000 warriors. Their leaders include Sitting Bull, Crazy Horse and Gall.

Custer moved fast.  By early morning, Sunday June 25, he and his scouts are on a bluff overlooking  the Little Bighorn River..  They view the Indian Encampment about 15 miles away.  Custer learns that his lead elements have been spotted by the Indians.  Fearing the Indians will escape, Custer reacts immediately rather than waiting for Terry and Gibbon to arrive the next day.

CUSTER DIVIDES HIS COMMAND

Just after noon Benteen leads 125 men to sweep the ground to the southwest of the village.  About 1430  Reno and 140 troopers separate from Custer, cross the Little Bighorn River and attack the Indian camp from the south.  Custer with 200 men moves along a ridgeline that follows the east bank of the river.  The regiments slow moving pack train brings up the rear and quickly falls behind.

You may not be able to read the words but understand that Reno
crossed the Little Bighorn and came upon the end of the Encampment.
He attacked and he was counter-attacked by a force of 1000's.
Blue arrow top left center.  He was forced to retreat to a grove of
trees and eventually up the steep coulee to the bluff where
his troops formed a defense.

Reno with Companies M, G and A form a skirmish line but are quickly overwhelmed.

“The very earth seemed to grow Indians, and they were running toward me in swarms from all directions.” MAJ Marcus Reno

Within minutes Reno is forced to retreat; first to a grove of trees along the Little Bighorn River. Finally, without support from Custer they are routed and flee to the top of a bluff where survivors dig in. Custer continues north.  Most of the Indians head north to face what they saw as another threat to the encampment.

There is a short trail around this defensive position. There are still remians of some of the entrenchments
and rifle pits the 7th Cavalry soldiers used in the defense.  This area is wide open - no shade - no water.  

Reno was joined by Benteen on the bluff who had hurried forward under orders from Custer, “Come on; Big Village, be quick, bring packs.”

Custer continues to advance.  Mediciane Tail Coulee 

Crazy Horse attacked up the Deep Ravine
to Last Stand Hill

AGAIN CUSTER DIVIDES HIS COMMAND

Custer's memorail marker
on Last Stand Hill
His was reinterred at
West Point

Three companies under CPT Myles Keogh move along the crest of a ridge.  Two companies under CPT George Yates descend a ravine (Medicine Tail Coulee) toward the Little Bighorn. Was this an attempt to again trap the Indians from fleeing – perhaps capture the women and children who were fleeing north along the Little Bighorn. .   It is unknown which column Custer remained with.  Much of why and what Custer did is unknown – there were no survivors.  Indian accounts of the battle were largely discounted  . . . . . hence the growth of a legend.

Markers placed by the Army indicating where
supposedly 7th Cavalry soldiers fell.
Custer's is the one with the black in the center.
Markers such as these are all along the battlefield.

Warriors guarding the ford, under the leadership of Gall, battle Yates at the river’s edge. Archeological evidence no shows that the troopers probably fled in disorder to a place now called “Last Stand Hill.

Downriver more Indians under Crazy Horse cross Little Bighorn  to attack the remnants of Custer’s command on “Last Stand Hill”..  The command was overwhelmed and the action was over in probably less than 20 minutes.

RENO–BENTEEN DEFENSE  

No one knew where Custer was but gunfire to the north suggested that he too had come under attack.  Eventually,  troops headed north to find Custer.  A company under CPT Thomas B. Weir marched about a mile downstream to a high hill (Weir Point).  By now the firing had stopped and nothing could be seen of Custer and his men.  When the rest of the soldiers arrived on the hill they were attacked and Reno ordered a withdrawal  to the original position on the bluffs.

Weir Point - I climbed the hill and was unable to determine the location of Last Stand Hill without binocularas 

Seven companies dug in and resisted Indian attacks for the remainder of the day and most of the next.   The siege finally ended when the Indians withdrew  upon learning of the approach of Terry and Gibbon.

In the battle the 7^th Cavalry lost 5 companies (C,E,F,I and L) under Custer (about 210 men).  Of the companies under the command of Reno and Benteen, 53 men were killed and 52 wounded.  The Indians lost no more than 100 killed.  They removed most of their dead from the battlefield when the large encampment broke up.

The tribes and families scattered, some going north, some south.  Most returned to the reservations and surrendered in the next few years.   

Marker of Asst  Surgeon
George E Lord
Most markers are labeld
US Soldier

Cheynne Warrior Marker

Last Stand Hill
Monument

 353 BIGHORN CANYON National Recreation Area, Big Horn County, MT – Yellowtail Dam

I think this was the road to the VC
When they say CLOSED they mean
CLOSED

Marina Boat Launch

I left Little Bighorn Battlefield around 2 pm.  However a few minutes down the road I saw a sign for the Bighorn Canyon NRA – Yellowtail Dam.  I took the exit, the sign said 44 miles . . .  when I got there it was another 10 to the boat landing and of course the Visitor Center was closed (supposedly to open Memorial Day).  In fact, I never found the Visitor Center – it may have been beyond the locked gate.  I did find Ranger HQ but of course that was also closed.  The drive was 3 hour diversion and I did get to see another part of the NRA.  The parking lots for boats and trailers are huge – of course they were empty., 

Yelllowtail Dam - view from the road to the Marina

THURSDAY May 25, 2017

WEATHER:  42 degrees at 5 am, clear; clouded up by 0630, winds fairly constant out of the NW around 20 mph knocked a lot of small cottonwood branches and leaf bunches on the trailer- cleared up some around 1430 - never got above 60.

BILLINGS, MT              LAT 45.7833     EL 3,123           SUNRISE 0505  SUNSET 2031  

TRAVEL:  Billings area

Yellowstone River RV Park WIFI was non-existent in the morning.  Not extremely unusual for many RV Parks – but I would expect better. Still useless at 0930 – may have to find a McDonald’s to update the blog.  I’m pretty sure that when I reach Yellowstone WIFI will not exist – probably the same for phone service.  Used the time to write the blog in WORD, label photos, clean the trailer/truck, groceries and do laundry.  WIFI opened up around 1030.  

Edited and labeled close to 300 photos today – did not have time to post them to the Bighorn and Little Bighorn on the blog.  It may be while until I can do that because of possibly non-existent WIFI in Yellowstone NP.  I couldn’t have posted them if I wanted to because WIFI here was also non-existent at 2130.  I went to bed.

I had planned to visit the site of the  Grapevine Creek Battle, MT today.  However, after checking with a Crow Ranger yesterday at the Little Bighorn Battlefield  the site is on difficult to get to and on private land.  Interesting that only one ranger at Little Bighorn knew about Grapevine considering that most of what follows was copied from the Bighorn Canyon website.. He did provide me some background of the battle.

The battle was a result of a land dispute between the Blackfoot and the Crow.

Sometime around 1850 a war party of around 35 Blackfoot warriors entered the Bighorn River Valley looking for Crow horses. It has been passed on by Crow oral historians that this war party may have picked up the tracks of a small Crow hunting party. The Blackfoot then followed them from the Bighorn River up Grapevine Creek, southwest towards Hoodoo Creek, which in those days was known to the Crow as “Where they ate bear”.

However, this small Crow hunting party was returning to a large hunting camp located about five miles from the battle site. When the Blackfoot realized they had been spotted, by Crow hunters butchering a buffalo, they immediately retired to a small knoll and began erecting stone breastworks. They knew they had small chance of outrunning Crow warriors mounted horseback.

The Blackfoot quickly erected twenty-three fortifications of piled stone in a relatively tight cluster. Most of these positions are U-shaped, but several on the crest of the knoll which were exposed to fire from all sides are circular. Most were large enough to accommodate only one man, yet some were large enough for two or three men.

The remains of these fortifications still remain on the battlefield today.

Crow narratives indicate that they did not immediately attack the intruders. Spiritual beliefs of most plains Indians required individuals to prepare themselves for battle by performing medicine rituals and dress themselves in keeping with instructions received from spiritual helpers or obtained in dreams. Failure to do so could result in disaster for the individual or his entire group.

While the Blackfoot were building their breastworks the Crow were sending runners back to the main camp alerting them that their old enemies, the Blackfoot (Itshipite), were in the area. Crow warriors performed their medicine rituals and prepared for battle. According to Crow tribal historians, many Crow gathered on a rise a few hundred yards from the Piegans fortified knoll.

The Crow made several attempts to overrun their enemy, but were repulsed each time. It is not clear from accounts if gunfire was included in this battle or strictly the throwing of lances and the shooting of arrows. Archeological surveys using metal detectors did not reveal any bullet lead or even lead splatter from bullets hitting rocks. If there were guns involved in the battle they were few and slow to reload.

The battle had reached a stalemate, until a Crow medicine man named Stump Horn arrived. It is not clear why Stump Horn was late arriving at the battle, he may have had an extensive medicine ritual to perform. Stump Horns’ spiritual medicine helper was a young bull elk. While on a vision quest fasting for several days alone in some remote spot, he was approached by a spike horned bull elk, which gave him spiritual power and strength in times of need. When he returned to his village he told his elders of a visit by the young bull elk.

It was then that he was likely given the name Stump Horn, meaning he had the heart of a bull, but was not an old mature bull yet. Usually when one receives a spirit helper like a bull elk or eagle or coyote or some other thing in nature, there are rituals that one is taught from the animal or nature, like thunder, such as prayers, songs and ways of every day life; being generous to others, etc. Whatever Stump Horn’s medicine was, it was strong on the day of the Grapevine Creek Battle.

“ Old Fashioned Homeland Security”
When Stump Horn finally arrived at the battle he wore a robe with paintings of a bull elk on it and his weapon was tipped with elk horns. Stump Horn told the rest of the Crow warriors that he would attack the Blackfoot alone and draw their fire, once he was inside their fortifications, the rest of the Crow were to charge in.

Stump Horn approached the hill the same way the previous attackers had, from the south, trotting up the hill zig-zagging, acting like an elk and singing his war song. In the words of Crow historian, “He charged it and they shot at him; they couldn’t hit him and he finally made it to the barricade.” Stump Horn entered the Blackfoott position and started stabbing them. Demoralized by a combination of Stump Horn’s apparent invulnerability, his fearsome fighting and an overwhelming number of Crow warriors charging in on them, the Blackfoot broke.

The Crow killed all but one of the Blackfoot, the lone survivor was severely beaten and allowed to travel back to his people to tell the story of their defeat. The Blackfoot have no record of this defeat by the Crow. Recently, the writer of this article ask a prominent Crow Tribal member if he had any thoughts or comments on this battle, his reply was, “Old Fashioned Homeland Security”

FRIDAY May 26, 2017

WEATHER:              39 degrees at 0430.

BILLINGS, MT              LAT 45.7833     EL 3,123           SUNRISE 05xx

YELLOWSTONE, WY    LAT      EL        SUNSET 20xx

Yellowstone NP covers 3,471 sq miles (2,221,766 acres) so its stats will vary upon you location.

TRAVEL:  Yellowstone River RV Park, Billings, MT to Yellowstone Fishing Bridge RV Park, Yellowstone National Park, WY

WIFI at Yellowstone RV Park did not exist at 0515 - unacceptable.

I tried Mobile Hotspot from my phone – this works well..  WIFI at Yellowston RV Park still useless at 0700.  In all fairness it di work well yesterday between 10 am and 3 pm.

East Entrance from Cody, WY
No photo bu a Grey Wolf leisurely crossed the
road just as I was approaching the Entrance
Station - even the rangers got out of their booths
to take a look.  Wildlife is everywhere in Yellowstone

355 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, Yellowstone National Park, WY

FISHING BRIDGE RV PARK is 26 miles past and a good deal higher than the East Entrance of Yellowstone NP.   As expected there is no WIFI, the clerk at the front desk told me power went out yesterday and that I should fill up my fresh water supply because the Rangers will shut off the water supply from 4 pm to 7 am (frost/freeze)  The sites are back-in, double-wide, asphalt  the roads are gravel.

The road from the East Entrance to Fishing Bridge is
27 miles drive.  EL 6951 thru Avalanche Pass EL 10588
to Fishing Bridge EL 7735.  Yes it was snowiing as
I climbed higher.

RV site at Fishing Bridge
I'd never set up while it was
snowing before.

I’ve never setup during a snow storm before . . . the flurries became pretty heavy, it was around 30 and the snow was starting to accumulate’.  A rig gets two complimentary showers per day.  The showers are at the check in station/laundry and are open from 7am until 8 pm.  I can see snow piles in the woods 4 feet deep from the window of my trailer. At least I brought appropriate clothing for winter camping and hiking . . . .  I may have to go to Alaska to find summer.

Yellowstone is huge.  The points in red as lodging/VC/camping. From Fishing Bridge:
30 minutes to Canyon Village and Grant Village; 1 1/2 hours to the North Entrance
above Mammoth Hot Springs.  Gardiner, MT is adjacent to the North Entrance

Yellowstone National Park is the world’s first national park and was established on March 1, 1872. It is 63 air miles long (north to south) and 54 air miles (east to west) with 96% in Wyoming, 3% in Montana and 1% in Idaho.  Its highest point is 11,358 ft and it lowest is 5,282 feet. Yellowstone is larger than Rhode Island and Delaware combined.

I stopped at the FISHING BRIDGE VC & MUSEUM  and spoke with several rangers about short day hikes.  They were very helpful – except when I queried about bears they became silent and handed me a card – “Tips for bear country visitors.”  The museum has a display of the small mammals and birds found in the park.  There is a small book store.

Hayden Valley and the Yellowstone
River.  A bison herd lives in the
valley. It had stopped snowing.

Sulfur Caldron has
a pH of 1-2 acidic
as a car battery. 

I drove the drove mile one way trip from Fishing Bridge to the Canyon Village VC.  The route follows the Yellowstone River.  The is the same Yellowstone River I camped along in Billings and it joins the Missouri River near Fort Union.   Canyon Village VC is much larger than Fishing Bridge.  There is a large auditorium that shows films every half hour, a bookstore and a fine exhibit on Yellowstone’s volcanic origins.

On the trip back I stopped at Hayden Valley, Sulphur Caldron (one of the most acidic features of the park), and Hayden Rapids

Mud Volcano Trail

Bison are everywhere

The .6 mile MUD VOLCANO TRAIL is a boardwalk – steep. Yellowstone itself is a volcano.  The pungent odor of rotten eggs is caused by the hydrogen sulfide gas.  The turbulent pools of hot, muddy water, hillsides strewn with trees cooked by steam and a bizarre landscape are seen on the trail. 

MUD VOLCANO TRAIL is close to one of the resurgent domes. Resurgent domes are areas of active ground deformation, where the land moves up and down with the fluctuation of the magma chamber below. 

Mud Volcano Trail
Churning Caldron

Mud Volcano Trail
Mudpot

Mud Volcano Trail
Sizzling Basin

Mud Volcano Trail - Black Dragon's Caldron

Black Dragon's Caldron

The acidity here plays a part in making them different from most hot springs and geysers.  Hydrogen sulfide gas is present deep in the earth.  Some microorganisms use this gas as an energy source.  They help convert the gas to sulfuric acid, which breaks down rock to clay.  The hydrogen sulfide and other gases explode through the layers of mud. 

In contrast, the more alkaline waters in most of Yellowstone’s geyser basins react with underground rock to line subsurface cracks with silica creating the natural ‘plumbing’ of geysers and hot springs.

Yellowstone's Plumbing

GEOLOGY

There are more geysers, hot springs, and mud-pots in Yellowstone than there are in the rest of the world.  About 2 million years ago , then 1.3 million years ago and again 640,000 years ago, huge volcanic eruptions occurred here.  The latest spewed out 240 cubic miles of debris.  The central part of what is now the park collapsed .forming a 35-by-45 mile caldera.  

The magmatic heat powering those eruptions still powers the park’s geysers, hot springs, fumeroles and mudpots.  The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone give a deeper view of these forces: its waterfalls highlight the boundaries of lava flows and thermal area. 

WILDLIFE

Buffalo seem to be everywhere – I saw my first timber wolf in the wild, leisurely crossing the road as I approached the East Entrance – not 50 yards away from my truck..  Plenty of birds.also

Yellowstone is immense.  I’m going to spend 5 days here and a stay of 7-10 could be more appropriate and still there would be more and more to see and explore.

SATURDAY May 27, 2017

WEATHER:  32 at 4:50 am – 37 in the trailer- calm, cloudy

YELLOWSTONE NP, WY-Fishing Bridge  LAT 44.428   EL 7,735  SUNRISE 0543 SUNSET 2054

TRAVEL:  Yellowstone Area – noticed a lot of Asians and Indians and young people 
yesterday – same today mostly tourists – the RV park does not have a “land yacht’ in the bunch.  I don’t think the sites aren’t enough for them.    A lot of smaller, older rigs and plenty of vans.  Drove first to Canyon Village then followed a grand circle to Tower-Roosevelt –sidetrack to the Lamar Valley – back to Tower-Roosevelt to Mammoth Hot Springs/Fort Yellowstone to Norris to Canyon to Fishing Bridge.

The red lines identify the limits of Yellowstone Volcano's previous caldera.  This is near Tower Fall..
Note the location of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, just above Tower Fall.
 The Yellowstone River flows from Yellowstone Lake.

Tower Fall

WILDLIFE people love to stop on the side of the road - in the middle of the road to watch animals. Bison are everywhere; yet the people still stop . . . . bison even walk the road – I think the trail was there before the road – I saw female elk – coyote - and did I say bison are everywhere

Lamar Valley & Lamar River 

LAMAR VALLEY –  is referred to as the American Serengeti.  Herds of bison and pronghorn antelope dot the landscape, but bears and wolves will occasionally make an appearance.  Early mornings and late evenings are the best times to view animals.  Bison were everywhere, but not in the photo

TROUT LAKE TRAIL – a moderate ( the first 10 minutes is steep all uphill) probably close to 2 miles round trip through a douglas-fir forest to and around Trout Lake.  This trail took me about 50 minutes to walk

Trout Lake Trail

Trout Lake Trail
1st view of the lake

Trout Lake

Mammoth Hot Springs
Horace M. Albright VC

MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS (ALBRIGHT VC) this building was originally the Bachelor Officer Quarters for Fort Yellowstone. 

Mammorth Hot srpings - Fort Yellowstone 

FORT YELLOWSTONE   Yellowstone was the world’s first National Park,.  Created in 1872, the government  wasn’t quite sure how to handle administration, specifically to stop poaching and prospecting.  The first two Park Superintendents did not have much of a staff.  The US Army was given the task from 1886-1918, until Park Rangers could take over the duties.

MAMMOTH SPRINGS TRIAL – The Shoshone and Bannock people collected minerals from Mammoth Hot Springs for white paint.  Minerals contribute to the terrace structures along with hat, a natural ‘plumbing system an, water and limestone.

Mammoth Hot Springs - there is a lot of trail here - mostly boardwalk

Mammoth Hot Springs
Liberty Cap

Mammoth Hot Springs - Minerva Terrace

The volcanic heat source for Mammoth Hot Springs is still a mystery to scientists. It could possibly be a large magma chamber beneath the Yellowstone Caldera or a smaller heat source close to Mammoth.

Mammoth Hot Springs - Glass Spring

At Mammoth a network of fractures and fissures form a ’plumbing ‘ system that allows hot water from underground to reach the surface.  Limestone, deposited here millions of years ago when a vast sea covered this area provides the final ingredient.

Mammoth Hots Springs - Dryad Spring

Hot water with dissolved carbon dioxide makes a solution of weak carbonic acid.  As the solution rises through the rock, it dissolves calcium carbonate, the primary compound in limestone.  At the surface, the calcium carbonate is deposited in the form of travertine, the rock that forms the terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs.

I bought a trail guide – but found it somewhat confusing. The trail is mostly boardwalk and it can be a steep climb – I walked all the trails possible and it took me 1 hour and 20 minutes.  Take water.  I couldn’t count the stair steps.

SUNDAY May 28, 2017

WEATHER:   28 degrees at 0425; it got up to 61 by afternoon in the valleys or basins – drive 5 miles and the weather will change

YELLOWSTONE NP, WY-Fishing Bridge  LAT 44.428   EL 7,735  SUNRISE 0542 SUNSET 2055

Did I say bison were everywhere in the valleys?
Here they have ROW as I'm driving north to
Mammoth Hot Springs and Gardiner, MT 

TRAVEL:  Yellowstone Area  I drove to Gardiner, MT via Canyon-Norris-Mammoth Hot Springs. Even at 7 am there were busloads unloading at Mammoth. Return through the North Entrance to Mammoth to Norris to Madison.  The drive to Old Faithful VC had stops along Firehole Canyon Drive, Fountain Flat Drive, and Firehole Lake Drive  to Biscuit Basin to Black Sand Basin the Upper Geyser Basin with the Old Faithful VC.  I returned via West Thumb.  I left my trailer at 0550 and returned at 1850.  It was a long day.

Historic North Entrance
Yellowstone National Park

I checked Saturday at Fishing Bridge, Canyon, and Mammoth Hot Springs VCs about church services in the Park – apparently, it’s too early in the season.  The closest church seems to be in Gardiner (2 hours north and 55+ miles) but no one could give me a mass time.  I called St. Williams/St.Mary’s in Gardiner/Livingston got a recording and it wouldn’t provide mass times. St. William’s has no website but St. Marys does – it appears the priest at St. Mary’s will be in Gardiner at 8 am.  This may be the longest in time 1 hour and 50 minutes I’ve ever driven to MASS.  St. Mary’s is 60 miles ways in Livingston, MT.

St. William's Church - Gardiner, MT

MASS was about an hour. There were about 80 people in church.  About 70% were visitors but the makeup of the congregation was unique.  At least 50% of the people were young i.e. under 30 there were 3 families with children in arms.  Only 15% were over age 60 and that included the priest, the deacon , the two ushers and me; the other 35% between 30 and 60.  It was a good service, good pianist and 2 person choir – better than most.  This was the celebration of the feast of the ASCENSION – the priest’s homily was on humility. The congregation prayed a prayer for vocations at the end of the service.

Museum of the Ranger -
 Norris Museum & Info Station
an old 'outpost' for the US Army 

Replica of Old Outpost
room - remote ranger
station

Gardiner, MT is a summer resort town but there is a lot going on here.  I think most people that live here work in the park - - -  there must be plenty of summer help.

My first stop was Mammoth Springs Hot Springs VC, and the Yellowstone General Store. I don’t have plans to pass this way again.

Firehole Canyon Drive

I arrived NORRIS MUSEUM & INFORMATION STATION – The Norris Geyser Basin is named for Philetus W. Norris, 2^nd Superintendent of Yellowstone National Park from 1877-1882.  He recorded this area’s hydrothermal features in detail and his extensive exploration added to the geographic knowledge of the park. Not a separate location but two locations the Museum of the National Park Ranger and Norris Information Station.

MUSEUM OF THE NATIONAL PARK RANGER staffed by volunteers this was originally an outpost built by the US Army.  The museum covers some Park Ranger history as well as the US Army’s construction and use of the outpost.  There are 6 short videos that you can watch here.  

NORRIS INFORMATION STATION - staffed by volunteers this station boasts to be something of a Junior Ranger Headquarters - - -  there is also a small gift shop.

Fountain Flat Drive - fly fishing on the Firehole River

Norris Geyser Basin Trail – too crowded -this place was backed up for parking – I may not walk this one this trip. Didn't even take a picture.

MADISON INFORMATION STATION – 

FIREHOLE CANYON DRIVE – almost immediately after leaving Norris and the Firehole River, there is a turnoff that leads to this pleasant drive along the river.

FOUNTAIN FLAT DRIVE – this was a short drive along the Firehole River and return.  It appears this is a favorite place for fishing.  Plenty of fly fishermen in the river.

Lower Geyser Basin Trail – too crowded – it was backed up like Norris I drove past.

FIREHOLE LAKE DRIVE another enjoyable drive just off the main road with pools.

Firehole Lake Drive
Themophiles (heat
loving micro-
organisms as the
cause of the colors

Firehole Lake Drive

Firehole Lake Drive

Pool in Biscuit Basin

BISCUIT BASIN – this is named for the unusual biscuit-like deposits that used to surround Sapphire Pool. Following the Hebgen Earthquake in 1959, Sapphire erupted, and the “biscuits” were blown away; it last erupted in 1991.  Sapphire is a beautiful blue pool.

Black Sand Basin 

BLACK SAND BASIN – Named for sand derived from black volcanic glass (obsidian), this basin features some of the most splendid springs in Yellowstone – Emerald Pool, Rainbow Pool and Sunset Lake. 

Upper Geyser Basin - Old Faithful Area Map  of Trails
You can walk to Black Sand Basin and Biscuit Basin -
at least 4 hours - take water

OLD FAITHFUL VC – located next to Old Faithful and the iconic Old Faithful Inn this VC and its adjacent built up area is probably the most visited location in Yellowstone.

Old Faithful erupts more frequently than any of the other big geysers.  It is not the largest within the park but the average interval between eruptions is 90 minutes, varying from 50 to 127 minutes.  An eruption last 1.5 to 5 minutes, expels 3,700-8,400 gallons of boiling water, and reaches a height of 106-184 feet.

There are 6 trails in the vicinity of Old Faithful Geyser. They vary in length from .7 to 5.2 miles in length.  I walked about 2 hours, estimating about 5 miles, most of the trail is boardwalk.  I started at the east end of the Old Faithful Geyser Loop, walking through Geyser Hill Loop to its intersection with the bicycle path and then the Daisy Geyser Loop and back to the VC.

Old Faithful
erupting

Upper Geyser Basin
Liberty Pool

Upper Geyser Basin Trails
Blue Star Spring

UPPER GEYSER BASIN TRAILS Within on square mile of Upper Geyser Basin are some 150 geysers, the highest concentration of anywhere on the earth.  The eruption of most geysers are fairly unpredictable but Park Rangers predict eruptions for 6 geysers within the basin.  

Upper Geyser  Basin Trails -
 Giant Geyser

Old Faithful Inn

Upper Geyser Basin Trails
Trails - Punch Bowl Spring

Upper Geyser Basin Trails
Belgian Pool

MONDAY May 29, 2017   MEMORIAL DAY

WEATHER:              30 degrees at 0530 clear, 39 in the trailer.

YELLOWSTONE NP, WY-Fishing Bridge  LAT 44.428   EL 7,735  SUNRISE 0541 SUNSET 2056

TRAVEL:  Yellowstone Area

Canyon Village VC

I think I over did it the last few days. I’ve developed a blister on my right big toe and I could feel my sock rubbing on my left heel when walking in the Upper Geyser Basin.  I plan to take it easy today.  Even though I may not be able to post anything to this blog while I’m here, I still need time to edit and label photos and write the verbiage for this blog.

CANYON VILLAGE VC – met up with an old friend who I knew in grade school, high school and scouts.  We haven’t seen each other in almost 50 years but crossed paths in April – we set up a meeting at Canyon Village VC for today.

Brink of the Upper Falls Trail - This was a short but steep down to the Overlook

Brink of the Upper Falls 

BRINK OF THE UPPER FALLS  - depending on the time of year between 5,000 - 6,000 gallons per second of water plunges over the Upper Falls.  The descent to the brink is a steep 1/8 of a mile walk.

Brink of the Upper Falls 

Herds of bison and pronghorn antelope dot the landscape, but bears and wolves will occasionally make an appearance.  Early mornings and late evenings are the best times to view animals.  Bison were everywhere.

TUESDAY May 30, 2017

WEATHER:             

YELLOWSTONE NP, WY-Fishing Bridge  LAT 44.428   EL 7,735  SUNRISE 054x SUNSET 205x

TRAVEL:  Yellowstone Area   Fishing Bridge to South Rim Drive to North Rim Drive to Canyon VC to Lake Village to Gull Point Drive to West Thumb VC to Bridge Bay Marina to Fishing Bridge

This map shows the South Rim Drive with Artist  Point and Uncle Tom's Point;
and North Rim Drive - Brink of the Lower Falls Trail, Red Rock Trail, Lookout Point, and Canyon Village 

The Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls enter the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone with immense force.  A number of overlooks provide stunning views.

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone expresses the Park’s complex geologic history in dramatic colors and shapes.  Puffs of steam from the canyon’s walls mark hydrotherrmal features.  The Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River add to the grandeur of this natural treasure.

Past and current hydrothermal activity altred and weakened the rhyolite, making the rocks softer.  The Yellowstone River eroded these weaked rocks  to deepen and widen the canyon.  The current canyon begins at the Lower Falls and end downstream from Tower Fall.

SOUTH RIM DRIVE

Upper Falls Viewpoint  - an easy walk to two viewpoints on the Upper Falls which drops 109 feet over a lip of volcanic rock.  The 109 ft Upper Falls flow over volcanic rock resistant to erosion .  The large rocks upstream are volcanic rocks form lava flows resistant to erosion.

Uncle Tom’s Trail – CLOSED due to repaving of the parking lot - a strenuous trail the descends 500 feet down into the canyon through more than 300 steps and paved descents..

Artist Point – one of the most photographed views in Yellowstone.  Framed by the canyon walls with forests for a backdrop, the Yellowstone River drops 308 feet over the Upper Falls.

Artist Point - Thomas Moran Painting of the Upper Falls

Artist Point - The Upper Falls of the Yellowstone Canyon

Grand Canyon of the
Yellowstone - Brink of the
Lower Falls

Grand Canyon of the
Yellowstone - Lookout Point
Lower Falls

NORTH RIM DRIVE a one-way road that leads to several accessible views of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

Brink of the Lower Falls Trail is a steep 600 ft descent with 10 switchbacks.  It took about 40 minutes to make the round-trip.  

Lookout Point an easy walk to view the canyon and the Lower Falls.  Osprey nests were in the area.

Red Rock Point Trail
still snow on this trail

Red Rock Point Trail
the red rocks

Red Rock Point – this trail is adjacent to Lookout Point will take you partway into the canyon as it descends 500 ft in about .38 miles – 8 switchbacks and 120 steps – this also took about 40 minutes to make the round-trip..

The multihued rocks of the canyon result from the hydrothermally altered ryolite and sediments.

The 308 ft Lower Falls  may have formed because the river flows over volcanic rock more resistant to erosion than the downstream rocks, which are hydrothermally altered.

Lake Village Hotel - on Lake Yellowstone

LAKE VILLAGE

Lake Yellowstone

WEST THUMB INFORMATION STATION

WEST THUMB GEYSER BASIN TRAIL – 21 miles from the South Entrance; a .7 mile boardwalk through a geyser basin on the shores of Lake Yellowstone.

West Thumb Information Station

West Thumb Geyser Basin overlooks Yellowstone Lake, the largest lake above 8,000 elevation in North America.  The shore of the lakes hints at what is below.  Surveys of the lake bottom in the 1990’s documented hot springs and hydrothermal vents just offshore of West Thumb.

West Thumb - An Exploded Bay

The large circular bay of West Thumb is an example of a volcanic caldera.  A powerful eruption about 174,000 years ago caused the earth’s crust to collapse, creating the West Thumb Caldera.  The depression later filled with water to become this large bay of Yellowstone Lake.

West Thumb Geyser Basin
Bluebell Pool

West Thumb Geyser Basin
Fishing Cone shore of Lake Yellowstone

West Thumb Geyser Basin
Paint Pots  not much to look at anymore

The Hayden Expedition of 1871 originally named the paint pots as ‘mud puffs.’   They saw a field of miniature mud volcanoes 3-4 feet high with steam curling from the mud chimneys.  Surrounding the cones the mud appears to be stirred and mixed to a smooth, sati.  Beginning in 1970 the Paint Pots became less active.

West Thumb Geyser Basin
Abyss Pool

Bridge Bay Marina
Lake Yellowstone

Yellowstone boasts a 1,000 miles of hiking trails.  I didn’t walk many of them.  Taking in the hydrothermal features and trails are unique to Yellowstone – I think I’m going to get enough of mountain hiking this summer in other places.

WEDNESDAY May 31, 2017

WEATHER:   34 at 0515, it felt colder than that . . .  frost on the truck, clear, 65 when I reached Headwaters

YELLOWSTONE NP, WY-Fishing Bridge    LAT 44.428   EL 7,735  SUNRISE 0540

GRAND TETON NP, WY Flagg Ranch        LAT 44.102   EL 6,818  SUNSET 2058

Flagg Ranch RV Park
Headwaters
JD Rockefeller Memorial Pkwy
Grand Teton NP

TRAVEL:  Yellowstone NP -  Fishing Bridge to Grand Teton NP – Headweaters RV Park - Flagg Ranch; a  short trip of 57 miles south or about an hour.  No rush to get out of Fishing Bridge. From Flagg Ranch to Colter Bay VC and back to Flagg Ranch.  The trip to Colter Bay is 15 miles/20 minutes one-way.

Spent part of the morning posting photos to the blog using the phone as a Hotspot . . ..

Flagg Ranch RV Park
Headwaters site

Headwaters RV Park, Flagg Ranch, WY is along the J.D. RockefellerJr. Memorial Parkway adjacent to the Snake River.  No  WIFI or cell phone service.  I may have to go to Jackson to update the blog..There is a McDonald’s there

Sites are gravel and fairly level – pull thru – I’m in the shade under pines which means I’ll be bombarded by pine cones occasionally.  Only issue here is the water spigot – it leaks – so did the one at Fishing Bridge – reminds me of West Point’s Round Pond i.e no phone -no WIFI. Actually I prefer this to Fishing Bridge – more room between sites – picnic tables _ fire pits and fries are allowed  - bathrooms and showers are close – open all day – clean  - not as crowded. Laundry open 24 hours a day. Flagg Ranch isn’t fully open – gift shop and restaurant don’t open for another week

356 JOHN D. ROCKEFELLER MEMORIAL PARKWAY, Grand Teton National Park, WY

The John D. Rockefeller Memorial Parkway commemorates the many contributions to conservation by Rockefeller on behalf of America’s National Park System.  Established in 1972, the parkway encompasses 24,000 acres connecting Grand Teton National Park with Yellowstone National Park.

John. D. Rockefeller Jr.

Visiting Jackson Hole in the 1920’s, Rockefeller was dismayed by the haphazard development marring the landscape.  With a vision to protect the spectacular Teton scenery, Rockefeller began buying land, later donating over 32,000 acres of the Jackson Hole Valley to the federal government.  His philanthropy ensured that views of the Teton Range and public access to northern Jackson Hole would be preserved for future generations.  Rockefeller worked to conserve national parks nationwide, too including Yellowstone, Yosemite, Acadia, Shenandoah, Great Smoky Mountains Virgin Islands, and of course March-Billings-Rockefeller.

John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway lies in the center of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

357 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, Grand Teton National Park, WY

Colter Bay Visitor Center

Grand Teton
National Park

COLTER BAY VC is a good sized VC with a small exhibit on Indian arts. Temperature here was 75.   Colter Bay VC sits above the shore of Jackson Lake in the shadow of Mt. Moran. There is an auditorium where videos are shown every 45 minutes or so.  I found out that many of the park trails are partially to completely snow-covered and that some of the bridges are unsafe.  The park is just opening up . . . . . probably a lot better than when the park is full of tourists from mid-June through August.

I watched a 15 minute video entitled the “Circle of Life” – it covered the seasons and how the wildlife lives throughout a year in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.. 

THURSDAY June1, 2017

WEATHER:  37 at 0445 – 48 in the trailer, depending on where you were - it warned up to 72 by mid afternoon

GRAND TETON NP, WY Flagg Ranch        LAT 44.102   EL 6,818  SUNRISE 0543  SUNSET 2058

TETON WEATHER – In the valley, spring daytime temperatures begin to rise from the 60s to the low 70s.  Nighttime temperatures still drop into the 30s.  Conditions can change fast. I have a NOAA Weather Radio (162.525 MHz) receiver it does work but not at Flagg Ranch.

TRAVEL: Drive from Flagg Ranch south to Colter Bay and made a loop along the west side of the Snake River to Moose VC.  There are many trails on this route. Theb along the Moose-Wilson Rd to Highway 22 to Jackson, WY and back to Flagg Ranch via the East Entrance.

357 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, Grand Teton National Park, WY

There are 3 VCs open at this time . . . . Colter Bay, Jenny Lake and Moose.

Lakeshore Trail

Lakeshore Trail
Coyote

Lakeshore Trail
Mt. Moran

J.D. Rockefeller Parkway
Grans Teton National Park

COLTER BAY VC – Lakeshore Trail ( 2 miles) – 1 hour)  A short walk in the morning (8-9 am). It started near the boat dock & VC then led North.  After reaching the end of a short peninsula it crosses a dike and goes to a forested island.  The trail circles the perimeter of this island and returns to re-cross the dike.  

On the far western end of the island, there are panoramic views across Jackson Lake to the Tetons.  The water level of Jackson Lake was raised almost 40 feet by the dam built in 1910.  This extra water is drained off during the summer months to irrigate farms in neighboring Idaho, so the lake level drops in the summer exposing more rocky shoreline.

Jackson Lake Lodge
View from second floor main room

JACKSON LAKE LODGE – This place was amazing – somehow I would place as the top lodge/place to stay in Grand Teton.

SIGNAL MOUNTAIN - ROAD CLOSED

Paintbrush Canyon Trail still closed due to snow
Unique to the Tetons is that they start to rise immediately - no "foothills"

LEIGH LAKE TRAIL – this trail started out as a fairly level 1.6 mile walk from the Parking Lot to Leigh Lake inlet  - crossing a long footbridge and beginning a fairly strenuous, steep climb to the STRING LAKE TRAIL and a 2.1 mile walk back to the Parking Lot.  The climb up had some of the trial still covered in snow.  This hike took me 2 hours.

Leigh Lake Trail

Leigh Lake Trail
Snow on the trail

Leigh Lake Trail
This is a huge snow mound
across the trail

JENNY LAKE VC – after the trails somewhere the screen on my phone went dark – so I also went to MOOSE VC  but couldn’t take any photos.  I went into Jackson and stopped at the VC – they told me where a Verizon store was, a church and a good place for a beer.  It turned out that somehow I had adjusted the BRIGHTNESS on the phone down to zero.  The Verizon folks fixed it immediately – I’m not the first to have this problem.   Anyway, the cost was zero and I got to scout out Jackson.

FRIDAY June 2, 2017

WEATHER:  it rained last night for about 20 minutes, 45 at 0530 and clear

GRAND TETON NP, WY Flagg Ranch        LAT 44.102   EL 6,818  SUNRISE 0543  SUNSET 2058

TRAVEL: Drive from Flagg Ranch south to Colter Bay (Scenic Lake Cruise)

south to Jenny Lake VC to Moose VC to Moose-Wilson Rd to Highway 22 to Jackson, WY and back to Flagg Ranch

Of course there were tour buses but not as many as in Yellowstone.  Just not enough time here to hike all the trails I would like to.  To do so, you need another 3-4 days..  Yellowstone and Grand Tetons together – I’m spending 9 days – probably 14 days in the parks is just about right.

Did laundry before I hit the road.  Laundry is open 24 hours per day – again better than Yellowstone. 

Unfortunate, but NPR every once in awhile turns into a mimic of MSNBC – and I can only take so much so I switch to another channel  – this time it’s the Paris Climate Agreement – they only present one side and when they mention CEOs against the president’s decision -  they don’t name them –I don’t get a paper on the road but I’m sure all the CEOs of renewable energy companies would not be in favor of us pulling out  and of course John Kerry or an environmentalist would think the president’s decision” is  a disaster – surprised they didn’t ask Hillary.  Of course Bill Clinton & Al Gore couldn’t get congress to agree to something similar in the 90’s.  So Bill didn't do it himself by Executive Order  - but Barack did - perhaps Trump is learning a lot from Barack . . . . .  .And of course, China is not going to back-off, they see opportunity here and besides if they don’t clean up their air – they’re going to kill themselves.  The reporting reminds me of NPR's approach to the riots in Los Angeles & Rodney King – where, in my opinion, NPR’s reporting actually incited rioting.  They just won’t let go.  Well, at least they admit to “negative coverage.”  Enough.

The lines between news and editorial are increasingly blurred.

Colter Bay Marina - Lake Jackson

357 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK,

Grand Teton National Park, WY

LAKE JACKSON SCENIC CRUISE – COLTER BAY VC I think I had decided on this cruise when I was planning last year . . .  it was worth the $32  - although the Captain and Fist Mate and only been on the job 10 days they gave a good tours keeping the information about the area flowing.  I did learn a few things.

Scenic Lake Jackson Cruise
Mt. Moran

Signal Mountain
No problem with cell
phone reception here

JACKSON LAKE LODGE – PIONEER GRILL I was done with the cruise at noon and decided that I’d stopped here for lunch.

View of the Valley from Signal Mountain

SIGNAL MOUNTAIN – this road was closed yesterday.  A five mile drive up hill – stunning views of the valley

Lupine Meadows

Mt. Moran
Turnout

Lupine Meadwos
Trailhead

LUPINE MEADOWS TRAILHEAD – if I had more time I think the trails that start here would be well worth the time.

MENORS FERRY HSITORIC DISTRICT/CHAPEL OF THE TRANSFIGURATION – William D. Menor came to the valley in 1894 and took up a homestead on the west wide of the Snake River.  He constructed a ferry which became a vital crossing for early settlers of the valley they called Jackson Hole.

Of  settlers, Menor was alone on the west bank of the Snake River for more than 10 years, his nearest neighbors being in an area later known as Mormon Row, east of the Blacktail Butte.  The west bank of the Snake was not heavily homesteaded until the advent of due ranching.

Chapel of the Transfiguration

Menor dug a well near the Snake River because he could draw water from the well even during spring run-off when the river was muddy and murky.

Ranching and farming was risky for Bill Menor and his neighbors.  Dry summers, rocky soils, and a growing season in Jackson Hole of less than 60 frost free days per year made agriculture marginal.

Menor's Ferry
across the Snake River

The Snake River was a natural barrier that divided Jackson Hole.  Most settlers before 1900 lived on the east side.  After 1894, Menor’s Ferry became the min crossing in the central part of Jackson Hole.  Residents crossed on the ferry to hunt, gather berries and mushrooms, and cut timber at the foot of the mountains.  The ferry of today is a replica.  The NPS rangers run the ferry usually beginning in July.

Menor's Ferry - the ferry is operated later in the
season by NPS rangers

Maude Noble purchased Menor’s property in 1918.  She raised ferry fares and ran a store, called Ferry Ranch Store.  In 1927 a steel truss bridge was built just south of the ferry making it obsolete.  Maude Nobel sold the property to the Snake River Land Company (J.D. Rockefeller Jr.) in 1929. 

Moose Visitor Center

Congress created Grand Teton National Park in 1929.  The first park included the Teton mountain range and the glacial lakes at the foot of the mountains.  In 1943, FDR issued a proclamation creating Jackson Hole National Monument.  The monument consisted of federal land in the valley.  In 1949, Rockefeller donated over 32,000 acres to the Department of the Interior.  Congress established the present park in 1950 which included the 1929 Park, the National Monument and the Rockefeller donation.

MOOSE VC (CRAIG THOMAS DISCOVERY AND VISITOR CENTER

CUNNINGHAM CABIN HISTORIC SITE – this is an .8 mile easy trail – it was late I the day – I may come this way tomorrow on my way to Jackson.

SATURDAY June 3, 2017

WEATHER:  34 degrees at 0530 - clear

GRAND TETON NP, WY Flagg Ranch        LAT 44.102   EL 6,818  SUNRISE 0542  SUNSET 2059

TRAVEL:  Headwaters RV Park – Flagg Ranch to Colter Bay VC to Cunningham Cabin to Morman Row to Jackson to Headwaters RV Park – Flagg Ranch-

Spent the morning editing and labeling over 200 photos from the last three days.  Refilled a propane tank – that’s been empty since Yellowstone.

357 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, Grand Teton National Park, WY

Cunningham Cabin

Flying Bar U Ranch
J. P. Cunningham
Start of the of the trail

CUNNINGHAM CABIN HISTORIC SITE – the Cunningham Cabin is the oldest historic building remaining in Grand Teton National Park.  J.Pierce Cunningham arrived in Jackson Hole about 1885 from New York when he was 20 years old.

Sometime between 1888-90 Cunningham and his new bride Margaret staked a homestead claim in this area.  The original ranch was 160 acres as allowed by the Homestead Act of 1862.  The Cunningham’s selected this land overlooking the Snake River because it had good soil.  Unlike most of the Valley which is covered in quartzite cobbles and very porous soils deposited by the glaciers , Cunningham’s land was covered with silt sediments and retained moisture and provided better nutrients for raising lush grasses.

View of the Grand Tetons from the ranch

Cunningham like all ranchers in Jackson Hole learned to adapt into small cattle operations.  The 160 acres of the Homestead Act were insufficient for Jackson Hole ranchers.  Less productive soils required more acreage.  Congress passed the Desert Land Act in 1877 allowing rancher to increase the size of their ranches at a cost of $1.25 per acre. 

Beginning in 1900 cattle ranching actually proved to be profitable, as calf prices increased. By 1918, the summer in Jackson Hole was dry and calf prices dropped with the end of WW I.  Ranch foreclosures became common.  Some enterprising ranchers converted their operations into “dude ranches.”

Teton Point Overlook - this picture does not do
the levels of the Valley justice

Cunningham sold his Flying Bar U Ranch operation to Rockefeller’s Snake River Land Company in 1928.  

TETON POINT OVERLOOK – driving on the east side of the Snake River you get a whole new perspective of Jackson Hole – the Valley. Here it is easy to see the Sagebursh Flats; the Wet Meadows and the Lakes and Ponds

Mormon Row sign

MORMAN ROW HISTORIC DISTRICT – Antelope Flats Road – The buildings on Mormon Row tell the story of a once vibrant community.  The Homestead Act of 1862 promised 160 acres to any person willing to “improve” the land by building a dwelling and cultivating the land.  After 5 years on the land, the original settler was entitled to the property free and clear.  Mormon families in the 1890’s began homesteading land in the Grovant area with hopes of building a new. life.  They constructed ranches, homes, a church, and a school – a true community

The landscape and extreme seasons challenged homesteaders in Jackson Hole – one of the last places in the lower 48 states to be homesteaded.   

Did not have time to visit Teton Village Jackson Hole Mountain Village this is not located in Grand Teton National Park, but is located in the Bridger–Teton National Forest.  There is an aerial tram that I may have taken to the mountain top.

Mormon Row - Moulton Homestead

Got into Jackson around 1440 found the McDonald’s and found out it may have the ‘slowest WIFI in the West.”  It will take me 8 hours to upload the pictures I need to.  update the blog.  There is only one outlet in the store and it looks like the locals come here for WIFI. I may use my phone . . . . . but I have a concern about charging.

Decided that 5 pictures per hour was way to slow -  . . .  went to the Verizon Store (to find out how to transfer an I-tunes playlist to my phone) and washed the truck.

Our Lady of the Mountains
Jackson, WY

5:30 PM MASS at OUT LADY OF THE MOUNTAINS -  Pentecost - A parish with two priests – one is from Africa.  The church was fairly full – about 250 people – mostly visitors.  You were asked to use yellow envelopes in the pew if you were a visitor – I didn’t see any but yellow in the basket.

The African said mass with a deacon.  The cantor had a good voice and keyboard player played well switching between piano and organ.  The sung mass parts were different than any I had hear in the Midwest.  The servers were a man about 50 and a boy who couldn’t be older than 5^th grade.  The Offertory song was Marty Haugen’s “Send Down The Fire” – brought back memories.

The priest had a distinctive, slow accent but was easy to understand.  His homily held my interest . . .  with two main points regarding Pentecost – the 10 commandments and Wind – Fire – Language . . .  always live you faith life thinking about where you’ve been, where you are now and where you will be going.

That's my truck and were looking at the back of
Snake River Brewing Company - Our Lady of the  Mountains
is half a block to the right 

I had intended to eat dinner at the Snake River Brewing Co – I walked for several blocks trying to locate it and found it was ½ block from where I had parked; literally a block from church.  A lot of other people had the same idea – there was a line to be put on the waiting list.  I didn’t hang around and went back to The Lift.  Good food,, service on the deck – I ordered the ‘special’ – a half-rack of ribs for $18.  It was another 54 mile 1..1 hours back to Flagg Ranch.

SUNDAY June 4, 2017

WEATHER:  37 at 5 am – calm & clear; 83 in Arco, ID at 1330

GRAND TETON NP, WY Flagg Ranch        LAT 44.102    EL 6,818  SUNRISE 0542 

MOUNTAIN VIEW RV PARK , Arco,           LAT 43.636    EL 5,325  SUNSET  2110

Teton Pass pullout just before the summit 

Dark clouds formed in the south, bringing a light and short rain with a good wind by 2030 – no thunder – things cooled down. Forecast low of 51 – don’t think I’ll need 3 blankets tonight.

TRAVEL: Headwaters RV Park – Flagg Ranch, WY  over Teton Pass into a valley over another pas and into another valley to Mountain View RV Park, Arco, ID to Craters of the Moon National Monument

What’s going on? This morning NPR reported ‘radical Islamist’ attacks in Europe . . .  – (I guess that’s what Britain’s Prime Minister calls it) most likely reporting depends on the commentator or producer – but they won’t let go of the ‘disaster’ for the President’s decision on the Paris Climate Agreement   

Wayside along US 20/26 just before Arco, ID 

Wayside along US 20/26 just befroe Arco, ID - Idaho National Laboratory a lot of nothingness
All facilities are off the road

Mountain View RV Park

Mountain View RV Park
RV Site

There’s not much in ARCO, ID (POP 896). Mountain View RV Park is actually very nice,  The sites are large enough and there is shade except in the late afternoon -the trailer faces West. Very nice showers – green grass – not much dust and not very crowded right now.  Mostly - just overnighters.

358 CRATERS OF THE MOON National

Craters of the Moon National Monument & Preserve

Monument & Preserve, Arco,ID

Located 18 miles south of Arco, ID, Craters of the Moon (750,000 acres)  is almost like Hawaii Volcanoes NP without the active volcano or parts of El Malpais NM.  Plenty of lava flows and cinders.

An aerial view - the light blue line is the Park Service Road
The area was avoided because you can't ride a horse through it
and you can't gorw domestic drops in the lave soil/rock

The lava lands remained a mysterious blank spot on maps for a long time. Goodale’s Cutoff of the Oregon Trail went just north of this desolate place.  Craters of the Moon became known through sheer curiosity.  Federal geologists explored here in 1901 and again in 1923. The area was declared a National Monument in 1924.  In 1970 Congress designated much of the National Monument as wilderness.  In 2002 Congress established a National Preserve.

There is a VC and a 7 mile

Crater of the Moon - aview from space

Loop Road.  The VC is small, but has a film on  volcanism. There is mention of the “hot spot” that fueled the deep fissures, known collectively as the “Great Rift,” that cross the Snake River plain.  Today, this same “hot spot” fuels the geysers of Yellowstone NP.    It appears to me the “hot spot” remains, as the continental plates continue to move over time . . . my geology may be a little shaky here.  Craters of the Moon volcanism began 15,000 years ago.  The most recent eruption here was 2,000 years ago.

North Trail

Cinder Cone Trail

Infreno Cone Trail

Astronauts confirmed that most lunar craters were created by meteorites not volcanism.

There are also a number of short trails that you can walk. I would suggest walking these trails early in the morning, before the sun gets to high.  There is no shade..

The flowers here – growing in the cinders are intriguing.

Flowers in the Cinders

This picture does not do justice to the flowers goring in the black cinders

Flowers in the Cinders

Photo from the net
The one I saw was too fast

I saw a Bullsnake crossing the road.  The Bullsnake is Montana’s largest snake and can reach a length of 7 feet; mine was medium 3 to 5 feet.  The ranger was jealous that I had saw one

MONDAY June 5, 2017

WEATHER:   50 degrees at 4:45; wind WNW 9 mph, clear, forecast calls for a high of 76

MOUNTAIN VIEW RV PARK , Arco,           LAT 43.636    EL 5,325  SUNRISE 0552  SUNSET  2111

TRAVEL: Mountain View RV Park, Arco, ID to Hagerman Fossil Beds NM, Hagerman ID to Minidoka NHS Jerome, ID to City of Rocks NPres Almo, ID to Mountain View RV Park, Arco, ID  –  a triple play for a  265 mile round trip

A lot of driving today – Hagerman does not have any trails only a VC; Minodoka has a 1.8 miles trail but little to see, the temp VC just opened Memorial Day and City of Rocks has a number of trails – didn’t walk any, too late in the afternoon.. . . .  a 2 ¾ hour trip back to Arco.

1^st day I’ve worn shorts since I started this trip.  Good to hear birds singing again – heard them yesterday also, no songbirds that I heard anywhere in Yellowstone or Grand Teton.

359 HAGERMAN FOSSIL BEDS National

Hagermann Fossil Beds Visitor Center

Monument, Hagerman, ID

The Visitor Center, located at 221 North State Street, Hagerman, ID. There is an introductory movie.  There was a paleontologist (PhD) giving a tour to a group of what must have been special visitors – boy could she talk – but I listened in while she described almost every specimen in the display cases.  She was going to take them to the lab and then maybe on a field walk.  No trails to walk here –as a National Monument this is unique - reserved for scientific research.  Not much to see – an hour would be a lot in the VC – there is a ‘driving tour’ of the Hagerman area that I did not take.

Known mostly for its fossils from the late Pliocene Epoch Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument contains one of the world’s richest known deposits of fossil horses, Equus simplicidens, thought to be a link between prehistoric and modern horses.

Idaho Highway Sign - Hagerman

Hagerman Fossil Beds - view

Hagerman Fossil Beds is nationally and internationally significant for its world-class paleontological resources. It includes the world’s richest fossil deposits, in quality, quantity, and diversity from the late Pliocene Epoch. Many of its fossils represent the last vestiges of species that existed before the last Ice Age, the Pleistocene, and the earliest ‘modern’ flora and fauna.

An artist's depiction of the area - the paleontologist was really excicted about this print because it displays
almost every fossil that has been found at Hagerman here - even small ones

The Monument's paleontological resources are contained in a continuous, undisturbed stratigraphic record spanning at least 500,000 years. The fossils deposited here appear to represent an entire paleontological ecosystem with a variety of habitats such as wetland, riparian, and grassland savanna.

The geology here is interesting
All that is left of Lake Bonneville is Great Salt Lake
and of course Lake Idaho no longer exists

Most of the fossils contained in the park are not obvious. There are no hikes or observation areas to see the fossils in place. A sampling of excavated fossils is displayed in the park visitor center, while the other fossils (most of small size and limited scope) are studied under laboratory conditions not currently visible to park visitors. It is in the long term plans for the park to make the laboratory work and procedures more accessible to everyone.  Most of the larger fossils are with the Smithsonian.

Finding Fossils

In 1928, a Hagerman rancher named Elmer Cook showed some fossil bones to Harold T. Stearns of the US Geological Survey, who passed them on to James W. Gidley of the Smithsonian Institution. In 1929 and 1930, Gidley excavated what is now known as the Hagerman Horse Quarry. These excavations uncovered the largest assemblage known of the first single-toed horse, Equus simplicidens. The Hagerman Horse later dispersed to Asia, where it may have given rise to other species of extinct horse.

The Smithsonian excavations resulted in the collection of more than 20 complete horse skeletons and material from more than 200 other individuals; many of these fossils were subsequently traded with museums across the nation and in Europe. Today, paleontological specimens from Hagerman Fossil Beds are housed on-site in the park collections and at more than 40 academic institutions across the nation. Since the Smithsonian first excavated in 1929, tens of thousands of additional fossils have been found, and new fossils, including those of new species, continue to be discovered.

These fossils contribute to a vast database that today's researchers can use to help reconstruct the evolutionary history of species and of changing paleoclimatic conditions.

Seldom are complete skeletons of an animal found. Most of the fossils newly discovered are small, and may be teeth, scales, or parts of jaws or other bones. More than field excavations, paleontology work involves more hours in a laboratory than in the field collecting. 

Idaho road sign - Goodale's Cutoff

The Oregon Trail

The Oregon Trail crosses the southern portion of Hagerman Fossil Beds. The Monument is one of only four units in the National Park system that contains parts of the Oregon National Historic Trail. 

It was in 1836 that the first wagons were used on the trek from Missouri to Oregon. A missionary party headed by Marcus Whitman and his wife Narcissa bravely set out to reach the Willamette Valley. Though the Whitman’s were forced to abandon their wagons 200 miles short of Oregon, they proved that families could go west by wheeled travel.

Replica Wagon at City of Rocks

In the spring of 1843, a wagon train of nearly 1,000 people organized at Independence, Missouri with plans to reach Oregon Country. Amidst an overwhelming chorus of naysayers who doubted their success, the so-called "Great Migration" made it safely to Oregon.

By 1846, thousands of emigrants who were drawn west by cheap land, patriotism or the promise of a better life found their way to Oregon Country. With so many Americans settling the region, it became obvious to the British that Oregon was no longer theirs. They ceded Oregon Country to the United States that year.

Minidoka National Historic Site 
actual entrance along road - the tower is reconstructed
the brick buildlngs to the left in the background were
the in-processing stations

360 MINIDOKA National Historic Site, Jerome ID

This is a place you really have to want to go to – the temporary VC just opened Memorial Day this year.  I spoke with the ranger (whose parents were interned at Manzanar) and there were about 175 visitors over the weekend.  Lots to develop here . . . . not up the standard of Manzanar and there isn’t much there either.  The trail is self guided.  Possible to spend 2 hours here.

Fear & Prejudice
Japanese Americans were interned
during WW II by FDR's  Executive Order 9066

The Pearl Harbor attack intensified existing hostility towards Japanese Americans. As wartime hysteria mounted, President Roosevelt signed Executive Order 9066 forcing over 120,000 West Coast persons of Japanese ancestry (Nikkei) to leave their homes, jobs, and lives behind and move to one of ten Relocation Centers (like Manzanar NHS). This single largest forced relocation in U.S. history is Minidoka's story.

On May 29, 2017, the National Park Service opened a temporary visitor center at what was once the Minidoka War Relocation Center, also known locally as Hunt Camp in Idaho.

Temporary Visitor Center
only open a week
Was actually an abandoned
residence of a homesteader
who won the lottery for the
Homestead Act after  WW II

The temporary Visitor Center will be open to the public for the summer season providing visitor services onsite. Hours will be from Memorial Day to Labor Day 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

The temporary Visitor Center is located at 296 S. 1400 E., Jerome, Idaho 83338 and features a few interpretive exhibits and the park’s bookstore.  This could be better marked – the road to it is a Service Road supposedly only for handicapped access – the parking lot is in Minidoka’s Warehouse Complex – even this could be better marked.

During its operation, Minidoka, was the 7th largest city in Idaho. After it was closed a large number of the buildings were removed for various uses, including housing, migrant labor camps, meeting halls, or for salvage value. The land was divided into small farms. Forty-three of these small farms were allotted in 1947 to World War II veterans, whose names were drawn in a lottery. In 1949 another 46 small farms were allotted. Each veteran also received two barracks. Therefore, not much remains of the camp to help visitors understand the important story that happened there.



In 1979 Minidoka was added to National Register of Historic Places. In 2001, it became the 385^th unit of the National Park Service.

The HONOR ROLL of Japanese- Americans serving in the US Military during WW II was displayed in the
1940's and is still at the entrance ot he internment camp today.

Minidoka - map

Today there is a small gravel parking area, a 1.6 mile walking trail, and interpretative signs about this important time in out history. The Honor Roll was reconstructed to highlight the nearly 1,000 from Minidoka who served in the war. Also, commemorated here are the Japanese Americans who died serving in the military during World War II.

In 2014, a reconstructed guard tower was built at the entrance of the Historic Site.

City of Rocks VC

361 CITY OF ROCKS, National Reserve, Almo, ID

This site is shared by the state of Idaho and NPS.  The VC is manned by the state of Idaho.  It appears that City of Rocks became a National Preserve, primarily to keep climbers off of some of the formations on this route along the California Trail.   This is almost located on the Idaho/Utah border.  A day here would be adequate if you walk the trails.

Emigrants of the California Trail describe the rocks here in vivid detail as "a city of tall spires,” “steeple rocks," and "the silent city."  To them it looked liked the ruins of an abandoned city.  Today, this Backcountry Byway attracts rock climbers, campers, hikers, hunters, and those with the spirit of adventure.

Circle Creek Overlook

 These rocks are granite – formed from magma under the earth – as the rocks were pushed upward and the softer rock eroded – the granite spires emerged in the City of Rocks.

Emigrants left their graffitti
on Camp Rock

Camp Rock

The VC for both the Reserve and State Park is located in the historic village of Almo.  The village of Almo was established in 1878, and remains an unincorporated community of deeply-rooted families of cattle ranching heritage. 

The City of Rocks auto tour journey technically begins in Albion - the starting point for the 49-mile City of Rocks Back Country Byway. Upon reaching Almo, stop at the City of Rocks/Castle Rocks VC for maps, information, and to watch the 8-minute orientation video that provide a great overview of City of Rocks geology, history, and things to do. There is a small book store.

City of Rocks - Twin Sisters granite

Near the east entrance to the Reserve (all dirt roads), drive to the Circle Creek Overlook

City of Rocks - Elephant Rock

(elevation 6,120). On a clear day, you can see the Bear River Mountains over 100 miles away! The Geological Interpretive Trail begins at the overlook parking area.

Camp Rock and  Register Rock have signatures in axle-grease, left by California-bound emigrants (1843-1882). The road is dirt and follows the route of the California Trail.   There are interpretive exhibits on Pinnacle Pass and Twin Sisters.

Pinnacle Pass - the route of the wagon trains -  it was a very step descent.
 Modern road engineers dynamited a road to the right of the pass near the Twin Sisters.

In Yellowstone or Grand Teton you runs into "bear jams"
here the ranchers use the roads to move their
cattle from pasture to pasture 

City of Rocks
I ran into two cattle herds on the
road returning to Aro

WIFI at Mountain View RV is too slow tonight  - in my opinion that is unacceptable.  I’ll try in the morning or later in the day when the ‘streamers’ hit the road.

TUESDAY June 6, 2017

WEATHER:  39 at 0515, 60 by 0930 – forecast calls for a high of 82

MOUNTAIN VIEW RV PARK , Arco,           LAT 43.636    EL 5,325  SUNRISE 0552  SUNSET  2112

TRAVEL: Mountain View RV Park, Arco, ID to River Park Golf Course, Mackay, ID to Mountain View RV Park, Arco, ID

Spent most of the morning posting to the blog.  WIFI seemed too good to be true  - it was – I guess I became over confident posting  pictures without saving and the WIFI shut down – I lost over an hour’s worth of work.

I am current on writing (in WORD) and labeling photos (on my pc), but it may take a while to catch up.  Nine days without WIFI, in Yellowstone and the Teton’s is a lot of time to make up.

A 9 hole golf course in MacKay, ID with PGA markers - associated with an RV Park  

Valley flat but nice view

This was definitely a  precise
hit the green hole.- at the
end of the fairway is a building
guarded by water in front
OOB left and to the rear

GOLF – RIVER PARK GOLF COURSE, Mackay, ID. . . . Shot a 49 for 9 holes with 20 putts and 1 lost ball.  Par on this course is 32.  There are five Par 3s at 119, 137, 152, 183, and 195 yds; three Par 4s at 384, 405 and 418 yds and a Par 5 at 522 yds.  It wasn’t easy.  You can lose your ball in the fairway . . .  they are straight and narrow; the greens are small, the greens are rough.  I had considered playing  SUN VALLEY RESORT, ID but that would have been a 4 hours drive round trip.  This was only 50 minutes round trip.  Well, I’ve played golf in Idaho and the guy in the shack thought a logo ball was a brand.

Labeled yesterdays photos.

WEDNESDAY June 7, 2017

WEATHER:  49 and clear at 0515; 84 when I reached Fairmont Rv Park, dark clouds by 1840 – raining with wind by 1900 – with the rain WIFI went down.

MOUNTAIN VIEW RV PARK, Arco, ID          LAT 43.636    EL 5,325  SUNRISE 0552

FAIRMONT RV PARK, Anaconda, MT          LAT 46.126    EL 5,276  SUNSET  2120

TRAVEL: Mountain View RV Park, Arco, ID to Fairmont RV Park, Anaconda, MT.  A drive of 240 miles - took 4 hours.  The 1^st 70 miles were on state highways – desolate – flat – saw a coyote and an antelope – only one pickup passed me for the entire 70 miles until I connected with I-15 then to I-90.  State Highways have 70 mph speed limits  - I do 65; I system has 80 mph speed limits; I do 70 with the trailer. Crossed the Continental Divide at EL 6870 on the I-system.  

Fairmont RV Park, Anaconda, MT  WIFI here is outstanding.  Wide sites, clean showers/restrooms, activity center – but no shade.  Mountains surround the site – about 10 miles from Anaconda, MT; 15 miles from Butte, MT.  Windy – gusts over 20 mph – rocks the trailer – haven’t felt wind like this since the open plains of Amarillo, TX.  North Dakota was windy but somehow the trailer seemed more solid.

 

THURSDAY June 8, 2017

WEATHER:    53 at 0515, clear  - depending on elevation it got up to 80

FAIRMONT RV PARK, Anaconda, MT          LAT 46.126    EL 5,276  SUNRISE 0540   SUNSET  2120

TRAVEL: Fairmont RV Park, Anaconda, MT to Big Hole National Battlefield, Deer Lodge, MT  to Grant Kohrs Ranch NHS, Deer Lodge, MT to Anaconda, MT, to Fairmont RV Park

362 BIG HOLE National Battlefield,

Wisdom, MT

On August 9, 1877 gun shots shattered a chilly dawn on a sleeping camp of Nez Perce. By the time the smoke cleared on August 10, almost 90 Nez Perce were dead along with 31 soldiers and volunteers. Big Hole National Battlefield was created to honor all who were there.

There was more here than I expected – the story of the Big Hole Battlefield involves, the Nez Perce led by Chief Joseph and the 7^th US Infantry under COL John Gibbon.  The same unit who a year earlier who had found the remnants of Custer's 7th Cavalry.

WHAT HAPPENED HERE

A group of 800 Nez Perce (consisting mostly of family groups and only about 200 warriors) with over 2000 horses camped along a branch of the Big Hole River on August 8, 1877.  They did not know that the military was close behind them and military scouts were observing them on August 8.

COL John Gibbon
CPT of FA before the
Civil War - Iron Brigade
Commader at Antietam

COL John Gibbon with 17 officers, 132 men and 34 civilians started down a trial to the Nez Perce encampment.  A cannon had fallen behind with a pack carrying 2,000 extra rounds of rifle ammunition.

Soldiers had surrounded the camp when a tribal elder woke early to check on the horses . . . he was shot as he approached the soldiers.  The soldiers were ordered “to give three volleys (low into the tipis) then charge. We did so”

There was chaos in the encampment.  The women, all scared, when the soldiers charged the camp, ran into the water, the brush – any place they could hide themselves and the children.

MG Oliver O. Howard - Gibbons Commanding Officer

The soldiers rushed into the encampment and started some tipis on fire.  The Nez Perce warriors organized and forced the soldiers to retreat back across the river to a stand of trees where they dug in.

As the soldiers were digging in, they heard two shots from the 12 lb Mountain Howitzer  that was behind them – the cannon crew was over-whelmed by the Nez Perce.  

Some of the warriors besieged the entrenched soldiers, while others raced back to the camp.  The Nez Perce buried their dead and prepared to move.

A US. Army relief column arrived the next day.

From 60-90 Nez Perce were killed; with an unknown number of wounded.  On the military and civilian side 31 were killed, 38 wounded..

.

Wiliam Tecmseh Sherman - Commander in the West

The Nez Perce only wanted to be free on the land

Today the Nez Perce are split among 3 reservations

The Nez Perce were sent to Oklahoma

363 GRANT KOHRS RANCH, National Historic Site, Deer Lodge, MT

"They were a rugged set of men, these pioneers, well qualified for their self-assumed task. In the pursuit of wealth a few succeeded and the majority failed,...the range cattle industry has seen its inception, zenith, and partial extinction all within a half-century. The changes of the past have been many; those of the future may be of even more revolutionary character."
Conrad Kohrs, 1913

I spent about 2 ½ hours here just looking around the grounds (no video) including a tour of the house. Better than I expected  . . . .this is a working ranch administered by the NPS.  The blacksmith and the chuck wagon cook (coffee was good) were actually rangers.  Probably a good visit for kids.

Dreams of wealth lured the first cattle men to Montana. The range was open and unfenced, and they could fatten their cattle on the lush bunchgrass and push on to new pastures when the old areas were overgrazed. The main obstacles were buffalo and the Indians, and by the 1860's both were fast being overcome.

Johnny Grant settled here in  1859.  He married women of several tribes to ensure peace in the valley.  In 1859 Grant drove 400 cattle from Deer Lodge Valley, MT to Sacramento, CA.  Conrad Kohrs bought the ranch from Johnny Grant in  1866, By the 1880’s, Kohrs was shipping 10,000 cattle annually to the stockyards in Chicago .  Kohrs was a “Cattle Baron” - the Cattle King of Montana.

Many of the herds were built through trade with westward-bound emigrants, who gladly swapped two or more trail-worn cows for a single well-fed one. In the late 1870's cowboys drove herds of rangy longhorns up from Texas to the better grazing lands of Montana, adding a Spanish strain to the English shorthorn breeds already established there and greatly multiplying the herds.

By 1885, cattle raising was the biggest industry on the High Plains, and foreign investors and eastern speculators rushed to get in on the bonanza. As ranches multiplied and the northern herds grew, there came a predictable consequence: overgrazing. This and the fierce winter of 1886-87 caused enormous losses, estimated at one-third to one-half of all the cattle on the northern plains. Many cattlemen never recovered.

If the snows of '86-87 foreshadowed the end of open range ranching, the homesteaders, with their barbed wire and fenced-in 160 acre claims, finished it off.

Kohrs borrowed $100,000 and had the loan paid off in 3 years. 

As the open-range system declined, Kohrs adapted his business to a mix of farming and open-range grazing.  By 1909, long after the boom year, Kohrs cattle sales were still $500,000.  He died in 1920.

His half-brother John Bielenberg ran the ranch in the name of the family trust, eventually Kohrs grandson, Conrad Warren, began a new era of ranching in 1932.

The 13 bedroom home has been kept as Kohrs had left it in 1920.  In 1977 Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site opened to the public through the generosity of Conrad Warren.

The open-range cattle industry lasted only three decades. Few of its pioneering men and women made their fortunes or are remembered today. But from their beginnings has evolved the more scientific ranching of today, with its own risks and uncertainties. That is the legacy of the Grant and the Kohrs, whose pioneer ranch, complete with original furnishings, is a reminder of an important chapter in the history of the West.

Anaconda, MT doesn’t even have a grocery store – lots of bars and casinos but no grocery – the closest thing to a grocery store they have is the Dollar Store – for a city of 10,000, There is a small Chevrolet dealership – I tried to make an appointment for an oil change – couldn’t fit me in until next week Friday.  I was disappointed in Anaconda, the 8^th largest city in Montana

Anaconda Smelter Smokestack
huge coal pile  I think in foregraound left

It does have history - - - Anaconda sprung from a melting pot of immigrants chasing the American dream. Hard work and ingenuity of laborers, ( lots of Irish it seems) craftsmen and business tycoons, coupled with southwestern Montana’s vast natural resources, impelled the Anaconda Copper Mining Company and the small but sophisticated town that arose with it, to a position of world’s largest supplier of copper, just as electricity came into common use.

The Anaconda Company  expanded smelting capacity over time; by 1919 the Washoe Reduction Works could boast that its 585-foot smokestack (Anaconda Smelter Stack) was the tallest masonry structure in the world and that the smelter-refining complex constituted the world's largest non-ferrous processing plant.

In 1980, Atlantic Richfield Company closed the smelter, bringing an end to almost a century of mineral processing. While some aspects of the operation had been cleaned up under environmental laws, closing the smelter resulted in a large area contaminated with hazardous wastes. Since then, an operation for environmental cleanup was put into place by the federal EPA  and executed with the assistance of ARCO.

FRIDAY June 9, 2017

WEATHER:  49 at 0616 , partly cloudy, calm; got windy and actually hailed when I was on the first hole of the Old Works Golf Course; cloudy all day started to rain around 6 pm until almost 7 - prepared for a Three Dog Night - supposed to get down to 35 tonight.

FAIRMONT RV PARK, Anaconda, MT          LAT 46.126    EL 5,276  SUNRISE 0540   SUNSET  2121

TRAVEL:  Anaconda area

Laundry, and update the blog  WIFI slowed down to a crawl around 3:30 – families pulling in; took must of the afternoon to pack for the next month   . . . . 

Old Works Golf Course - A Jack Nicklaus Signature Course
Note: The Golden Bear

Yes, that's hail on the fairway - 1st Hole

GOLF Like a Phoenix rising from the ashes, the Old Works Golf Course has been reborn on the site of Anaconda's historic century old copper smelter. Jack Nicklaus incorporated many historic relics in his Signature design. With its affordability, course conditioning and friendly service, Old Works has built a reputation as one of the premiere daily fee golf experiences in the Northwest region.

I had fun playing here.  I shot a 47 with 18 putts and 4 were in the sand or what was supposed to be sand – not sure what it is – someone called it “clay” it looks volcanic – I think its leftover from the copper smelting industry.

In the 'sand" trap #4
174 yd Par 3 1st Shot
I got a four on the hole

Looking back on #6 Par 5 - my 2nd shot landed just in front of the black
hill on the left center - it was a blind shot over that hill (which is bigger
than it looks here) to the green which is off the picture to the left.
Of course I landed in a sand trap and took a 6 on the hole.

SATURDAY June 10, 2017

My trailer waits At Fairmont RV Park in Anaconda, MT
until I return @$3/day

WEATHER:   41 at 6 am a cool day – 54 in Helena at 7:30 pm

FAIRMONT RV PARK, Anaconda, MT          LAT 46.126    EL 5,276  SUNRISE 0540

HELENA, MT                                                LAT 46.588    EL 3,875  SUNSET  2121

TRAVEL:  Fairmont RV Park Anaconda, MT to Holiday Inn Express Helena, MT (82 miles – 1 hour 20 minutes)

Did laundry, cleaned and stowed the trailer at Fairmont RV Park.

St. Mary's Catholic Community
Helena, MT

4:30 pm Mass at St. Mary’s Catholic Community, Helena, MT   -  about 150 in attendance; 60 % over 60; remainder under  - - -  young families but no one with grade/high school kids - - - - - no bells, servers were two men who came out of the congregation to assist at Offertory and also served communion . . .  priest with a deacon – sermon on ‘God so loved the world’  - wish I could remember more but the priest was not that impressive or maybe I just wasn’t tuned in . . . .

LOOK TO THE NEXT POSTING FOR ALASKA  still no time to post photos of Yellowstone, posted some Grand Teton